PeaceFul Garden

MAH Garden

2009-06-29T07:20:00.000-07:00

That was my perhaps my fifth visit to Mount Alvernia Hospital (MAH), located at 820 Thomson Road, Singapore 574623. MAH or Mount Alvernia Hospital is a special hospital surrounded by peaceful greens.

My latest visit to the hospital, MAH, was last month. I had chosen to give birth at this hospital again. The reason for choosing MAH is that of religious purpose, as well as the beautiful gardens which the hospital has. The most important being the cleanliness and facilities the hospital provides. The toilet is the utmost important factor which determines the comfort of the hospital. During my first pregnancy several years back, the bathroom at MAH was not as good as now. The flooring was rather old, covered with small bluish mozaic tiles!

During my stay at Mount Alvernia Hospital last month as well as a visit to MAH last year, I had a chance to use several bathrooms at MAH. Most bathrooms are upgraded and almost all the toilets are now so much improved. Not only are the toilets clean, with better floor tiles but also bathroom accessories.

I felt very comfortable during the few days stay at the hospital. The thing which really captivated me and 'opened up' my mind, letting me feel so much refreshed was the garden. At the ward, I was fortunate to have a glimpse of the garden view. On the day of discharge, which I felt better, I took some pictures of the gardens as shown below:

Photo of MAH garden taken at my ward, standing at the window of my room.

Photo of MAH garden taken at second storey of the hospital, along the level of my ward.

Photo I: Beatiful garden at MAH, just beside the admission counter.

Photo II: Beatiful garden at MAH, just beside the admission counter (a continuation from photo I)

Dracaena terminalis (Flaming Dragon Tree)

2008-05-07T18:50:00.000-07:00

Dracaena terminalis (Cordyline Plant) 'Firebrand'; Flaming Dragon Tree

This is the plant that my grandmother loved. My grandmother loved aloe vera, a very special type of aloe vera she loved very much. As for this purple plant, this so-called flaming dragon tree or Dracaena terminalis, she used to pluck and bring them to our home in Boon Lay. One can grow this plant by stem-cutting. When my grandmother died, her grave was planted with this plant. My grandfather, her husband, knew that she loved this plant, and he had specially planted this plants on her grave.

I went to her grave before the birth of my children. There were one to three flaming dragon tree. But I have not gone there for years. Little did I know that such a mystery exist between me and these plants, and God.

Richard and I (always) jog at Fu Shan Garden, the special jogging loop. The circle is planted with special trees, lots of plants/trees with medicinal values there, with strange fruits, beauty. Of late, I noticed that this purple plant flowered!!!! --- Full of flowers, first time I see! But now I see the fruits, First Time, First Time I see, so nice!

These pictures were taken on 5th May 2008. See the red fruits, they are so nice.

This little plant is grown out of nowhere, and the first time I saw it, it was purplish with little tinge of green. But I have the 'sensation', the kind of 'special feeling' that that is between me and my grandmother. I am green and she is purple. Now we merged, and I am right, the whole plant has become more green and it is growing so nicely. First time I see such colour, and first time I see purple Dracaena 'Firebrand' become green. I have so much things to say about plants...

Tembusu

2008-04-23T20:45:00.000-07:00

Common name: Tembusu.
Scientific name: Fagraea fragrans.
Family name: Loganiaceae.
Indonesian name: Tembesu.
Sabahan name: Temasuk.
Thai name: Tam Sao.
Filipino name: Urung.
Cambodian name: Tatrao, Trai.
Burmese names: Anan, Ananma.

Tembusu Tree, Fagraea fragrans. This is a very hardy trees which can thrive and bloom even under adverse conditions. It is an impressive tree that can grow up to as high as 40m and have distinctive straight single trunk with deeply fissured bark. A native tree of secondary forest, it is well adapted to grow on poor soils in open areas. A long-lived tree, it can live up to 150 to 200 years. Branches arise from the main trunk and grow upwards. The leaves are simple, elliptical and narrowing towards the tip.

The Tembusu tree flowers twice a year, towards the middle and the end of the year. Flowering is gregarious, all trees flowering together, very unlike many of the trees growing in Singapore. Flowers are in bunches, shades of yellow and cream, nice fragrance especially towards the late evenings, attracting night-flying moths which help in their pollination.

Fruits of the Tembusu Tree is small roundish berries, but I have yet to see the real fruits yet.

I was writing about the Enchanted Tembusu Tree, walking around the house, doing something here and there, I saw two beautiful birds in flight, one black pigeon and one white pigeon, flying, spreading out its wings so beautifully flying pass in front of me, outside the window. What a beautiful sight, beautiful scene, stunning and amazing, WOW-filling inspiration, my heart burning, burning with passion, burning with excitement and wonder.

This morning, cool air, cool breeze, all blowing over me, SHIOK!

Brought Ricsson to school, and on my way back, at the traffic light, I smelled another beautiful fragrance. It was the camwood plant, Baphia nitida. I have not taken any photograph of it, but this is a very special shrubs, with white flowers that looked like orchid. This plant is normally plant near the fence, at garbage corner, like this picture below.

Bukit Batok, Singapore: Rose of India on the right hand side of the picture. Below is Camwood, Baphia nitida

What a beautiful gift God has given me, all for me to see, but my mission yet accomplished, fear of the unknown, mysteries yet to be unveiled....

This is the bark of the Tembusu Tree, One look at the bark and the tree trunk, you can tell it is Tembusu Tree trunk, special, with deeply fissured bark. The Tembusu wood is very hard and resistant to rot and termites. It can be used for making bridges, rafts, chopping boards, furniture, and house building.

The grand old Tembusu tree at Lawn E probably predates the Gardens, having established itself naturally on the wasteland left by gambir planting before the site was acquired by the Botanic Gardens. This tree has been identified as a heritage tree and is featured on the Singapore $5 currency note and in postage stamps.

Tembusu Links
More Pictures of Tembusu Tree
Tembusu Alumni

Peace Garden

2008-02-27T16:04:00.000-08:00

Scindapsus aureus is the best of all foliage plants, with yellow and green variegation that is retained even in poor light. Commonly known as Money Plant or Devil's Ivy, it will climb or trail as desired. Scindapsus aureus is a common houseplants as well as a garden plant because it needs little care. The photograph above was taken at the Church of St Anthony, the place where you can find peace.

In this busy world, where Time is Money and everybody wants to go back to nature, no matter where you go, plants and flowers can be found everywhere around us. At home, if you have a backyard, you can have a varieties of plants planted in your garden. However, if you are living in high-rise apartments, you can only have potted plants at home. Looking after container gardens can be another great responsibility for busy houseowners. Some problems associated with houseplants which are deprived of care from their owners includes pests infestation and plants disease. This problems increase the problems of busy houseowners and there is no peace!

Nowadays busy houseowners often choose artificial flowers and plants and even Wall Decals for their home. Instead of having potted plants and flowers, which occupy precious space at home, various Tile Decals which comes in various patterns and colours can bring just as much peace as the live plants and flowers! In fact, more spiritual peace can be derived from nature Wall Decor such as that of birds and flowers, flowers and leaves, etc. Imagine you are surrounded in your own natural paradise with nature all around you -- no need to care for your plants, no need to worry about repotting, no need to worry about space for your home, everyone's home can have a Peace Garden even if there is no more room now!

Do you want to visit Peace Garden or do you want Peace Garden to be with you wherever you go? The choice is yours.

My Corridor Garden

2008-02-24T08:51:00.000-08:00

These are plants from our corridor garden. Some plants belong to my mother, some plants belong to my father and some belong to my brother and me. We tried to water the plants everyday, but there were days where we did not water for them. The plants were soon 'thirsty'. As our house does not have any balcony, we can only have container garden at the corridor of our house. We cannot put any blinds to control filter off extreme sunlight on the plants. During this hot season, my father's roses were affected by the harsh environment. If there were blinds at the corridor, the roses, bryophyllum and bougainvillea would have grown more healthily. If there are blinds, the water in the soil would not have evaporated so fast too. How I wish my house has a balcony so that our plants can have better care.

Plant Containers And Composts

2008-01-31T06:43:00.000-08:00

Plastic pots are very common nowadays for houseplants. They are useful when placed in the bedroom among the bedroom furniture since they do not break easily. Clay pots are still available too. However, in the case of clay pots, they are commonly used when plants are to be placed among the living room furniture, dining room furniture or bar furniture. This is because because the clay pots are heavy and they are not easily blown off the furniture by the wind. However, the choice of plastic pots or clay pots is entirely yours, as it makes no difference to the plants. Clay pots are heavy, providing balance for large plants, but they are porous, losing moisture through the sides, as well as from top and bottom, so more frequent watering is required. Plastic pots are clean, may be colourful or plain, but not liable to break easily.

Clay pots usually have only one drainage hole and must be crocked in the base with shards from a broken pot, whereas plastic pots have several holes and are free-draining. Typically, a pot is as deep as it is round. Pot sizes range in diameter from 4 cm to 38cm. This measurement is made across the top of the pot, inside the rim. The usual sizes needed for most houseplants are from 7.5cm up to 25cm.

If you want to place the plant in a decorative container(wood, metal or ceramic) with no drainage hole, it is best to stand the pot inside, rather than plant directly into the container. If you do pot up plants in a non-draining container, put a layer of gravel or charcoal in the base before adding the compost. Line a metal container with plastic, as some metals affect the roots of plants. You can use non-waterproof outer containers -- for example, baskets. Hanging baskets are popular for trailing plants. Mesh baskets must be lined with plastic hanging pots, which are also available separately.

There are two basic types of potting mixture. The first type is soil, which are loam-based composts. The second type is soil-less mixtures, largely consisting of peat. It is easy to tell which compost the plant is in when you buy it -- peat composts are dark brown and crumbly, loamy soil is lighter in colour and more gritty. Peat-based composts are light and clean, but they dry out quickly and give less weight in the pot to balance a tall stem or spreading foliage. Proprietary brand composts are sterilized and contain special nutrients. Never pot plants in garden soil, as this is not sufficiently nutritious and may harbour all sorts of weeds, pests and diseases.

Valentine's Day Flowers

2008-01-21T22:23:00.000-08:00

This is a close-up view of the miniature rose along the corridor, outside our house. This is a good month where all the roses blossom again. Looking at the photographs below, you can see rose buds and more roses are going to be seen in another few days to weeks. This is going to be a good time for Valentine's Day. My father loves red roses while my mother loves yellow roses. Both these roses are blossoming beautifully each day.

My parents are always so excited when they see their flowers blossomed, especially my mother. She loves this yellow rose so much(picture below). Four years ago, my mother gave my brother a blue-coloured Forever Friends Bear for Valentine's Day. She gave me a pink-coloured Forever Friends Bear and she gave my father a Graduate Forever Friends Bear. Who says Valentine's Day is only for lovers?

Valentine's Day is a time for people to express their love for each other. Most guys would give flowers to the ladies they love. The most common Valentine's day flowers are roses, especially red roses. There are so many varieties and colours of roses. However, who says Valentine's day must give roses? There are lots of varieties and choices of flowers at Valentine flowers in Toronto which anyone can easily browse and shop for their favourite bouquet of flowers for their loved ones. Before Valentine's Day, I hope to present this bouquet of tulips which I had found at
Toronto flowers delivery and I would like to present them to you, wishing everybody a Happy Valentine's Day on 14th February 2008.

Garden of Unity

2007-12-11T06:27:00.000-08:00

These are flowers taken at Garden of Unity at Woodlands, Fu Shan Garden. Everyday, many elderly are seen at Garden of Unity, taking care of the plants there. There are various herbs, vegetables and flowers in the garden. Beside the garden is the running track where many people come for jogging. There are young and old joggers.

There are no modern furniture in the garden. The garden furniture consists of tables and stools. I always see an old man with two dogs sitting at one of the table. Sometimes I saw him chatting with other old men while some other times he was seen strolling around with the dogs. There are no modern furniture in the garden, but recently there are modern playground at the garden. Children love the playground very much. Other developments which are going to be added soon to the garden is the pavilion. The pavilion is under construction now and I look forward for its completion. The garden should have more modern furniture so that people can enjoy their stay in the garden. Currently, there are not many benches and seats around. Some of the seats are very dirty too. Hopefully there are more seats available when the pavilion is ready.

Small Garden Design

2007-10-20T08:41:00.000-07:00

Formal gardens appeal to those who delight in crisp, neat edges, straight lines and a sense of order. Many traditional suburban gardens are formal in outline, with rectangular lawns flanked by straight flower borders, and perhaps rectangular or circular flower beds cut into them.

A small garden lends itself to being paved throughout. By growing most plants in raised beds or in containers, less bending is involved and many of the smaller plants are more easily appreciated. Climbers can be used to make the most of vertical space.

Some successful gardens are worked out on the ground, in the mind's eye, perhaps visualized during a walk around the garden, or conceived in stages as construction takes place. Attractive small gardens seldom just happen, they are designed. Despite the apparent contradiction, the smaller the garden, the more important good design becomes.

A small garden can be taken in almost at a glance, and the difference between good and bad design, attention to detail or neglect, is immediately obvious. Small gardens can still have a big impact. Size is comparative. There are as many garden styles as there are tastes, and the only criterion for success is whether the result pleases you personally. To add styles and suitable designs to your home garden, buy mailboxes that can match your home garden.

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Regent's Park

2007-10-17T19:32:00.000-07:00

Regent's Park became enclosed as a park in 1812. John Nash designed the scheme and originally envisaged a kind of garden suburb, dotted with 56 villas in a variety of Classical styles, with a pleasure palace for the Prince Regent. In the event only eight villas -- but no palace -- were built inside the park (three survive round the edge of the Inner Circle).

In 1811, the Prince Regent, intent upon making London a place of style, commissioned the architect John Nash to plan a grand neoclassical scheme that pivoted upon Piccadilly Circus. A sweeping processional route was built to connect Westminster and St Jame's Park with an encircled space to the north that was to become the Regent's Park. Nash intended to develop this land as an upmarket housing estate with crescents and circuses providing elegant villas for the rich. But money and time ran out and fortunately this part of the concept was only partly fulfilled.

Instead we have a splendid park, planned as a circle within a circle and wrapped around from east to west by superb stucco terraces of large houses, with smaller intimate hamlets such as Park Village East and West. The northern perimeter, bounded by the Regent's Canal, connects the open parkland with the slopes of Primrose Hill. From here it once looked outwards to the rustic charms of the hill villages of Hampstead and Highgate.

The inner circle is now Queen Mary's Garden, with wide herbaceous beds, a sunken garden, a romantic lake with waterfall and rocks, as well as an open-air theatre for summer Shakespeare and a popular boating lake. Most of all, this site is justifiably admired for Queen Mary's Rose Garden, where a comprehensive collection of roses is encircled by tall posts supporting swagged ropes festooned with ramblers and climbers.

Climbers and Wall Shrubs

2007-10-16T09:51:00.000-07:00

Clematis is a treasure among climbers, with its glorious blooms, wonderful range of colours and long flowering period.

Wisteria

Climbers are long-lived plants, with a lot of growing to do, so it pays to give them a good start. First of all, you must choose a healthy plant. Sturdy stems are a good sign but most important of all are the roots. Tip the post and check the drainage holes. Reject any with a mass of roots, but those with just a few roots emerging are at exactly the right stage for planting.

Climbing plants are invaluable for giving the garden a well-furnished, finished look. They can hide an ugly wall, a dilapidated shed beautifully!

Some climbers, such as ivy and Hydrangea petiolaris are self-supporting, attaching themselves by little aerial roots, and need no help to scale a wall. Most Virginia creepers have special sucker pads on their tendrils. But the twiners(honeysuckle, clementis, wisteria, and the like) must have something to hang on to.

Picture of Hydrangea petiolaris

Caring of Climbers
Watering: Climbers on walls or near trees need extra water in warm, dry weather, even when they are well established.

Feeding: A spring feeding of rose fertilizer gives all climbers and wall shrubs an annual boost. At the same time, mulch with a layer of well-rotted manure or compost to improve the soil, lock in moisture, and keep the weeds down.

Pruning: To keep plants within bounds, and to create a good shape, some pruning is inevitable. LIght pruning can be done at any time during the growing season, to any climber or wall shrub, but pruning differ from plants to plants.

Picture of honeysuckle

Orchids Bathroom

2007-10-09T07:02:00.000-07:00

The name "orchid" comes from the Greek root orkhis, meaning "testicle". Orchids are one of the largest groups of flowering plants, consisting of some 25,000 to 30,000 species. Phalaenopsis are among the easiest and most rewarding orchids to grow.

In nature, orchids grow on trees, on rocks, but most of the popular varieties do not grow in dirt or soil of any kind - so, in pots we use mixes of bark, volcanic rock, small amounts of peat moss, sometimes coconut fiber - all substances that allow plenty of air to get to the roots yet hold some water. Soil will suffocate the roots, killing the plant.

Orchids are relatively easy to grow. They need the basics -- water, light, air and fertilizer. You can have beautiful orchid plants that last for years. Orchid flowers vary according to the variety and hybrid but they can bloom from once to 2-4 times a year. The blossoms can last for weeks to months. The ideal place to grow orchids is the green house, but bathrooms, kitchens, pool or spa areas, and washrooms are all acceptable locations. Use unbreakable containers such as plastic or stainless steel pots.

Orchids will benefit from the extra humidity of the bathroom. A bathroom with plenty of light would be the perfect environment for an orchid. (Taps4Less.com is an online bathroom shop that can offer you a range of taps, showers, electric showers, bathroom accessories, bathroom suites, bathroom furniture, bathroom cabinets, baths, bath tubs, shower enclosures, shower valve etc.. )

Pictures of Geraniums

2007-10-08T06:28:00.000-07:00

Geraniums are just about the easiest of all plants to grow as long as you give them a sunny location in well-drained soil. Officially, they should be called pelargoniums, to distinguish them from the true geraniums, which are hardy outdoor perennials. They were classified as pelargoniums 2000 years ago, but it is taking us a while to get used to the idea.

There is a tremendous choice of more than 1000 varieties of geraniums, in upright and trailing forms. Flower colours range from deep red to pure white, and some cultivars even have variegated leaves. There is also a range of flower-head shapes -- from big, globelike pompons to more open clusters.

The most free flowering are the seed-raised 'Multibloom' varieties, closely followed by the zonal types(those with rounded leaves that open bear a maroon horseshoe marking).

Ivy-leaved trailing geraniums, which look so good in large pots and window boxes, are also very reliable. Martha Washington geraniums(with serrated edges to the leaves) have the showiest flowers, but a much shorter flowering period.

Grandma's Garden

2007-09-18T08:03:00.000-07:00

This is my Grandma's corridor garden. My grandma's hobby is gardening. She took good care of all her plants. She always use water which she had used for washing fish, rice and vegetables to water her plants. From a few pots of plants, her corridor garden has now more pots and more varieties of plants and flowers. One thing which my grandma does not have is stainless steel flower pots. If she has stainless steel flower pots and flower stands, then she would not need to be afraid of mischievous children who always knocked down all her plants. Each time the children had broken the flower pots, she had to find new ones to replace them. If she has stainless steel planters and stainless stain plant stands, then that would be perfect.

Grandma loves flowers. She always cut her flowers from her corridor gardens to place them at the altar. Her vases often dropped on the floor as a result of strong wind. Such thing will not happen if she has stainless steel vase instead!

What Goes Where

2007-09-03T02:45:00.000-07:00

Pink Pelargoniums

Plants enliven a room and you will want to place them where they look most attractive and can be seen and appreciated much of the time. They should also be within easy reach for watering and tending. But houseplants have preferences about where they live, and to avoid disappointment over a poor show of flowers or limp, chilled foliage, you must primarily take the plant's needs into consideration. Many plants will adapt to less than ideal conditions and several species are naturally suited to difficult places -- a shady corner or cool north-facing window with little light -- but others demand a much more comfortable environment.

Light and temperature are the most crucial factors -- humidity can be controlled. Avoid extreme conditions. Plants in a sunny window suffer leaf scorching if pressed to the glass under direct, hot sun, and the compost will dry out more quickly. Cover the window with blinds so that you can adjust the amount of light coming through the windows. Alternatively, shades can be used to filter out strong sunlights too.

One basic rule is that green foliage plants survive much better than flowering plants in poor light, and variegated foliage needs some good light to maintain its colours. The vivid blooms of Impatiens, Primulas and Pelargoniums are a happy choice for a bright, sunny windowsill; the red and yellow foliage of Codiaeum or cool green and cream of Chlorophytum benefit from a position near a window; further into the room where light is dim, you can keep a plant with a large leaves adapted to making the most of available light, such as Monstera deliciosa or Ficus 'Robusta'.

Primulas

A south-facing window gets the most sun, but do not assume all light-loving plants must look south. Many appreciate the less fierce rays of morning or afternoon sun and may prefer a window facing east or west. Green plants do well in north light with no sun, but there is no need to restrict the choice entirely to these. Bulbs, Dianthus or Chrysanthemums can provide seasonal colour in a north-facing window, or choose the spectacular Columnea, a trailing plant with a heavy cascade of dark foliage and bright orange-red flowers.

Dianthus

Plants are most often kept in the living room or kitchen. These frequently used rooms tend to have the best light and regular temperatures. The plants' progress is constantly on view, so it is worth trying more delicate varieties in the living room, as well as the large range of tolerant and adaptable plants. Do not place or hang plants directly over a source of heat -- above a radiator or by the cooker.

Columnea

The choice between keeping a few single specimens or arranging massed groups of varied types depends upon your preference and the time you can give them. Plants grouped together must like or tolerate similar conditions. An interesting easy-care arrangement can be devised using green foliage interspersed with variegated plants. Combinations of flowering and foliage plants can be livened up seasonally if the plants are kept in separate pots. Excellent effects are achieved either by grouping several plants of the same type in a dense cluster, or by introducing definite contrasts of height, colour, leaf shape and texture.

Large ferns and palms may grow to such a height that the container must be on or near floor level. As a general rule, small plants should be at or below eye level, trailers at or above eye level and large, showy plants arranged to minimize the effect of bare stems and draw attention to the spreading foliage above. Mask leggy plants by grouping smaller, bushy varieties around the base.

The best light source is the sun. For houseplants which are placed near the windows, use blinds or shades to control the amount of lights. Ordinary light bulbs and spotlights generate a lot of heat and do not satisfy a plant's needs for light. The only type of artificial light in the home that actually encourages growth is cool white or daylight fluorescent tubes. Even so, these must burn for several hours a day to support foliage growth.

Balboa Park

2007-08-30T06:34:00.000-07:00

Balboa Park is an urban cultural park in San Diego, California, United States. It is named after a Spanish explorer who first set eyes on the Pacific Ocean in 1513. Balboa Park is a National Historic Landmark which is managed and maintained by the City of San Diego Parks and Recreation Department.

Balboa Park was founded in 1868. Its beauty owes much to the dedicated horticulturalist Kate Sessions who, in 1892, promised to plant trees throughout its 1200 acres in exchange for renting space for a nursery. In 1915 the park was the site of the city's Panama-Pacific Exposition, a world's fair celebrating the opening of the Panama Canal. Several of the Spanish Colonial-style pavilions built in that year survive along El Prado (the park's main street), and the animals gathered for the exhibition formed the nucleus from which San Diego Zoo has grown. Twenty years later the organizers of the California-Pacific International Exposition added more exhibition spaces around Pan-American Plaza. All these buildings now form a rich concentration of museums and performance venues.

Balboa Park is a cultural complex. Besides open areas and natural vegetation, it contains a variety of cultural attractions such as museums, theaters, gardens, shops, restaurants and San Diego Zoo. The park has museum exhibitions, plays, musicals, concerts, and classes. There are a number of gardens located in the park. These include Alcazar Garden, Botanical Building, Cactus Garden, Casa del Rey Moro Garden, Inez Grant Parker Memorial Rose Garden, Japanese Friendship Garden, Marston House Garden, Palm Canyon and Zoro Garden. Every year there are about 14 million visitors going to the park.

Balboa Park is adjacent to many of San Diego's neighborhoods including Downtown San Diego, Bankers Hill, Hillcrest, North Park, South Park, and Golden Hill. It is a beautiful and peaceful place. Stretching from Orange County to the Mexican border, the coastline of San Diego County has 70 miles of lovely sandy beaches, cliffs, coves and seaside resorts. The beach culture is sophisticated, and the sports activity is frenzied. Peace can be found at Batiquitos Lagoon, Torrey Pines State Preserve, and the Chula Vista Nature Center, which are all sanctuaries for coastal wildlife. San Diego is a wonderful place for holidays. Goin2Travel is a worldwide vacation rentals websites where owners and managers can list their vacation rentals and travelers can inquire directly and book the rental with the owner or manager. Search for San Diego vacation rental homes and many other vacation homes at Goin2Travel! Click here for Newport beach rental homes and more!

St. James's Park

2007-08-24T01:30:00.001-07:00

The British are famed for their gardens and love of flowers and this is reflected in several of London's parks. Closer to the centre of town, St James's Park boasts some spectacular flower beds, filled with bulbs and bedding plants, which are changed every season.

History of St James's Park
St James's park began life as a boggy field next to a leper hospital for women. The site of the hospital has also come up in the world, as it is now occupied by St. James's Palace. Henry VIII(1509-47), who always had such a canny eye for property, saw the potential of this area when he acquired it in 1532. He knocked down the hospital in order to build a place, and drained the field to create a tiltyard and bowling alley, as well as a nursery for his collection of deer. Succeeding monarchs enjoyed the park and altered it to suit their needs: Elizabeth I (1558 -1603) staged pageants and fetes here, while James I improved the drainage so he could create a formal garden complete with a menagerie that included two crocodiles.

Along with many royal properties, St James's Park suffered during the Interregnum (1649 -60), the period between the end of the English Civil War and the Restoration, during which Charles II was in exile, and Londoners cut down many of the trees and burnt them for fuel.

Charles II rescued the park from neglect after he came to the throne. He acquired a further 36 acres 914.5 hectares) of land and had the grounds landscaped in what was then the highly fashionable, formal French style typified by the designs of Andre Le Notre(1613 -1700). One of Charles's lasting legacies is the park's canal, which was formed by merging some small ponds into one long stretch of waterway, and used to parade around it with his mistresses -- he was even known to swim in it on occasion. Such activities took place in full view of the public, who were admitted into the park for the first time during Charles's reign.

By the time Queen Anne (1702-14) came to the throne, the park had lost its grandeur and been colonized by prostitutes. However, it was gradually reclaimed by polite society and in 1814, the Prince Regent held a spectacular gala here to celebrate the 16th anniversary of the Battle of the Nile and the centenary of the House of Hanover's British rule. A Chinese pagoda was built for the occasion, but tragically it caught fire during the fireworks display, killing one man and injuring five others.

Many renovations and alterations have been carried out to St James's Park since then. However, some things have not changed. The park is home to several pelicans, which were first introduced when a Russian ambassador gave a pair of the birds to Charles II.

Rose Classes

2007-08-01T00:04:00.001-07:00

In the wild, roses grow as shrubs of various height. If they grow singly among low-growing plants they are small shrubs in terms of height but have broadly spreading branches so that they take up a large space. If they grow at the edge of a forest or among taller plants the shrubs are taller, sparser, and have longer branches.

Shrub roses look gorgeous in a natural garden and can be planted singly or in small groups. They are perfect ornamentals which help to beautify residential mailboxes as well as commercial mailboxes. The rose shrub grows towards the light. If a rose grows among other trees and shrubs then its branches are very long, sparsely covered with leaves, and bearing only few, if any, blooms. The shoots weave in and out in the undergrowth trying to make their way to the top, to sunlight, where they again produce flowers in profusion. If wild roses, known as species roses, are planted in a site which provides the same conditions as those found in their natural environment then they will retain their original shape and aspect even in the garden. Though we find many species roses in gardens, chiefly grown are the cultivated garden roses.

The most commonly groups of roses grown in gardens are the large-flowered hybrid teas and remontant roses and the multiflowered polyanthas, polyantha hybrids, floribundas, floribunda grandiflora roses, climbers and, less frequently, also shrub roses. In addition to these there are further subgroups such as Garnet's roses, miniature roses and the like. The majority of roses fall into one of the following classes:

1. Hybrid Tea Rose
They bloom continuously from late spring until frost and display large, bright double flowers (usually one per stem) with conical centers. If you live in the North, cut their canes back in the early spring -- 12 to 14 inches; 18 to 24 inches in the South. Elegant-stemmed, they make ideal cut roses.

2. Floribunda
They bloom heavily throughout the growing season, displaying clusters of saucer-shaped flowers. Although hardier and more disease resistant than hybrid teas, they require the same treatment. They make an excellent flowering hedge.

3. Grandiflora
These tall, stately bushes bloom much like floribundas, combining that class's free-flowering, hardy habits with the blossoms of the hybrid tea. They require the same care as the hybrid tea.

4. Old Garden Rose
This broad class includes such southern types as the China, tea, and noisette roses; northern, winter-hardy types such as hybrid perpetuals, bourbons, and gallicas, and any rose introduced before the hybrid tea's first appearance (1864). The southern types require relatively little pruning or spraying. Northern types benefit from spring pruning of no more than one third of each cane and another similar pruning after the first flush of flowers.

5. Climber
This catchall class includes everbloomers and once-blooming roses. Carefully prune everblooming varieties in early spring: remove dead and diseased matter; retain new canes. When blossoms fade, encourage new flower grouth by cutting back the side branches 0.25 inch above the second set of five-leaflet leaves. Prune ramblers and other once-blooming types after flowering; remove dead canes.

When planting climbing roses, the size of the given cultivar must be taken into account. It is a pity to have to cut off healthy canes of prospering roses later on just because you planted them too close to each other. The minimum distance is 120cm, and in some cases even 200-300cm.

A lawn makes the best connecting element between rose beds and other parts of the garden. It not only makes it possible to admire the beauty of the roses at any distance but also provides the best microclimate for them. In addition, the outline of the house and even the mailboxes can be covered with climbing roses. ( For artistic and classy mailboxes to enhance your garden and your house, you may consider Mailboxixchange. Mailboxixchange is a distributor of high quality residential mailboxes and commercial mailboxes. They have over 1500 mailbox and curbside decor products. )

Low Maintenance Gardening

2007-07-08T04:53:00.000-07:00

Picture of Dead Nettle

Gardening is a hobby for many people. To have an attractive and beautiful garden, there is no magic. Time and care is needed if you want your plants to look their best. For many families, especially those with very young children, life is a constant race against time. Apart from work, school and socialising there may be ballet, swimming, football and all manner of other extra-curricular activities to be fitted into the day. The fact is that many of us do not have so much time to pay much attention on the garden, yet we wish to have our plants to look beautiful. We want to feel proud of having an attractive garden.

1. Layout and Plants Choice
Aim for an uncomplicated natural layout, as anything too formal demands a great deal of attention to keep it looking trim. Avoid annual bedding plants, that need to be dug up at the end of each season and instead choose plants that will take care of themselves. Bulbs and perennials are plants that are easy to maintain. Numerous plants such as anemone, dead nettle, periwinkle and geranium, can spread easily much human assistance.

For easy garden maintenance, choose shrubs, especially evergreens, which naturally grow into an attractive shape and eliminate the need to spend hours clipping and training. Plant climbers that are self-clinging are preferred to those that are twining, so that you do not need put up trellis or wires then tie them in.

Picture of Hyacinths

Lawns are relatively high maintenance areas because they require regular mowing, but the open space is very useful in a family garden. Containers look lovely, but they should be kept to a minimum as they are labour intensive requiring constant watering in dry weather. Avoid soft fruits and vegetables which require a lot of attention too.

A busy family life leaves little time for gardening. Choose plants that are easy to maintain. Make your garden simple. Make it your family activity, have children to help out in gardening and you will have more fun.

Picture of Geranium

2. Watering
If you find watering a chore, install a self-watering system or use one that's permanently in position and just needs turning on at the tap. There are many systems from which to choose, some based on sprinklers, others on drips from a nozzle, yet more from pipes through which the water slowly oozes. Sprinklers are probably the least effective for a border in terms of water wastage. Drip feeds are more economical with water than sprinklers.

Picture of Periwinkle

3. Feeding
The easiest way to ensure new plants don't go short of nutrients is to incorporate a slow-release or controlled-release fertilizer into the planting area. These will ensure a constant supply of nutrients for several months.

Leucojum vernum

2007-05-26T01:45:00.000-07:00

Kingdom Plantae
Subkingdom Tracheobionta (Vascular plants)
Superdivision Spermatophyta (Seed plants)
Division Magnoliophyta (Flowering plants)
Class Liliopsida (Monocotyledons)
Subclass Liliidae
Order Liliales
Family Liliaceae (Lily family)
Genus Leucojum L. (snowflake)
Species Leucojum vernum L. (spring snowflake,
St. Joseph's Bells)

A very ornamental plant. The flowers have a powerful scent that is likened by some to hawthorns and by others to violets.

Leucojum derives from the Greek for "white violet [the flower]". The snowflakes are native to southern Europe, from the Pyrenées to Romania and western Russia, but they have been introduced and have naturalized in many other areas, including the east coast of North America. They have narrow, strap-like, dark green leaves. The flowers are small and bell-shaped, white with a green (or occasionally yellow) spot at the end of each petal. They have a slight fragrance. It is in flower from March to April, and the seeds ripen in July. The scented flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by Bees. It is noted for attracting wildlife.

Two varieties of Leucojum vernum are known: L. vernum var. carpathicum originates from the eastern part of its natural range and is a larger plant with yellowish spots on its petals rather than green; L. vernum var. vagneri from Hungary is a robust plant, often with two flowers per stem.

The plant prefers light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils. The plant prefers acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils and can grow in very alkaline soil. It can grow in full shade (deep woodland) or semi-shade (light woodland). It requires moist soil.

The Summer Snowflake has a wider natural range, taking in Europe, southwest Asia and northern Iran, and growing in wetter habitats including damp woodland, riversides and swamps. Despite its common name it also flowers from March to May, though slightly later than the Spring Snowflake. It is a taller plant than Leucojum vernum, growing to around 60 cm (2 ft), but its flowers are smaller and are carried in an umbel of between three and seven. Its fleshy seed pods are inflated, allowing them to be dispersed by flood water.

Cultivation
Easily grown in ordinary garden soil. Prefers an open rich moist limy soil. Succeeds in shade or semi-shade. If naturalizing in short grass, a light, well-drained soil is essential. The dormant bulbs are fairly hardy and will withstand soil temperatures down to at least -5°c.

Propagation
The seed is best sown as soon as it is ripe in a well-drained soil in a cold frame. Stored seed requires 2 - 3 months cold stratification, it should then germinate in 2 - 4 weeks at 10°c. Sow the seed thinly so that the seedlings can be allowed to grow on undisturbed in the pots for their first year of growth. Give them an occasional weak liquid feed to ensure that they do not become nutrient deficient. Pot up the small bulbs when dormant, planting 2 - 3 bulbs in each pot. Grow them on for another 2 - 3 years before planting them out.

View More Beautiful Pictures of Leucojum vernum

Fritillaria imperialis

2007-05-25T02:47:00.000-07:00

Kingdom Plantae
Subkingdom Tracheobionta
Superdivision Spermatophyta
Division Magnoliophyta
Class Liliopsida
Subclass Liliidae
Order Liliales
Family Liliaceae
Genus Fritillaria L.
Species Fritillaria imperialis L.

Fritillaria imperialis, common name: Imperial crown or Fritilaria, has brightly colored, showy clusters of flowers.

Fritillaria is a genus of about 100 species of bulbous plants in the family Liliaceae, native to temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere. They often have nodding, bell- or cup-shaped flowers, and the majority are spring-flowering. The name is from Latin fritillus, a dice-box, and probably refers to the checkered pattern, frequently of chocolate-brown and greenish yellow, that is common to many species' flowers.

Several species (such as Fritillaria cirrhosa and Fritillaria verticillata) are used in traditional Chinese cough remedies. They are listed as chuan bei (Chinese: 川貝) or zhe bei (Chinese: 浙貝), respectively, and are often in formulations combined with extracts of loquat.

The Crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis) is a member of the genus Fritillaria, family Liliaceae. It is native to Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Turkey and the Himalaya region. It is one of the earliest plants to be cultivated. It grows to about 1 meter (3 feet) in height, and bears lance shaped, glossy leaves, at intervals along the stem. It bears a prominent whorl of downward facing flowers at the top of the stem. The flower whorl is topped by a 'crown' of small leaves, hence the name. While the wild form is usually red flowered, various colours are found in cultivation, ranging through the reds, oranges, and yellows.

The pendulous flowers make a bold statement in the garden and the odor scares away mice, moles, and other rodents. In the northern hemisphere, flowering takes place in late April or May. Due to the way that the bulb is formed, it is best to plant it on its side, to prevent water causing rot in the depression at the top of the bulb. Fritillaria requires full sun for best growth. After flowering and complete drying of the leaves, the stems should be cut off just above the ground.

Fast Facts

Origin: it grows from Turkey to the Himalayas.

Habitat: the Fritillaria sort is of wild rocky hill land form next to the Mediterranean coast.

In gardening they are cultivated in the outside, like solitary flowers or forming small pebbles groups, under shrubs or as borduras in pools.

The imperial Crown continues being popular thanks to its imposing presence: a high plant (80-100 cm) with short chalices of orange, yellow flowers péndulas or red, underneath a crown of brácteas.

Light: it does not like to be to total sun, but in average shade.

Temperatures: it prefers a warm location.

Permeable and rich Ground in humus.

See more photos and notes from Botany Photo Of the Day

Colours In Garden

2007-04-25T18:41:00.000-07:00

In arranging a garden, the alternation of light and shade is as important as the sensitive grouping of shapes and colours. The lightest element is always the sky, second place is taken by a surface of water, lawns are rather darker, followed by deciduous trees and shrubs, and lastly conifers -- of which the darkest is the yew. Among these trees and shrubs, however, there are some with different-coloured leaves, for instance silver: the Silver-berry, Sea Buckthorn, and Silver Spruce are nearly as light as water.

The various shades of trees and shrubs can be used to stress or reinforce the character of certain parts of the garden. For instance, you can plant conifers in the dark, shady parts and light-coloured deciduous trees in the light places. The sunniest places are best reserved for the glowing colours of flowers, the shady spots being used for rest.

Colours heighten the effect of the composition, act on the emotions and evoke certain moods. The artistic effect of colours may depend on the use of just one, or on a variety of combinations.

The use of one colour is very effective in gardens planned in a more or less regular or ornamental style, especially in large areas of grass, mirrored in ponds, or in carpets of flowers. However, this use of colour is mostly foreign to natural landscape compositions.

Colour combinations are much more frequent than the use of one colour and shades of it, but in a planned composition these cannot be left to chance. Though there is no hard and fast rule for making such combinations, there are a few principles that should be observed.

The traditional scheme of secondary or complementary colours can be seen on what is called Ostawald's colour cycle. Three sections of a circle are coloured with the primary colours -- red, yellow and blue. By mixing two neighbouring colours we obtain orange, green and violet. The complementary colours are those that are opposite one another in the circle, ie. red and green, yellow and violet and blue and orange. The combination of complementary colours is pleasing to the observer, provoking agreeable sensations. But, in some situations, even non-complementary colours may make an effective or dramatic colour combination.

Another factor that must be taken into account in grouping colours is their degree of luminosity. All of the warm colours, that is red, orange, and yellow are glowing. Their opposites, that is blue, green and violet are cold. A combination of too glowing colours may be shocking, even if they are complementary.

For a harmonious relationship between two colours there must also be certain spatial conditions. For instance, glowing yellow flowers scattered thinly against a dark background of conifers are harmonious in their contrast, but the yellow of the flowers loses its luminosity because they are not in a sufficiently concentrated planting.

In practice, garden compositions often combine not only two but more colours, and here disharmony may easily occur, especially if a third colour is added to two complementary ones with which it does not go well.

Bathroom Plants

2007-03-26T19:13:00.000-07:00

Begonias

Houseplants are a common to be seen in bathrooms nowadays. Houseplants add varieties and beauty to the bathroom. In addition to decorating the bathroom, houseplants add warmth to the bathroom as well. Bathrooms are excellent place for houseplants such as ferns and yuccas. Plants thrive in the humid environment of the bath. The visual effects of natural plants in the bathroom connect us with the wonder of the natural world and it brings us a sense of tranquility.

Not every houseplant is suitable for the bathroom. Most houseplants, perched on a window ledge, do not do well with dim lighting or direct sunlight. They prefer diffused natural light. Artificial light, especially a combination of incandescent and fluorescent, also will work. Tropical houseplants are the best option for bathroom plants since they like high humidity, warm temperature and could grow even in low light. Plants grow toward the light, so turn them every few days for even growth. The shower is an also an excellent place to clean your houseplants every couple of months!

Plants that benefit from a shower include ficus, palms, ivy, citrus, coffee, ferns and spider plants. Plants that don't like getting too wet include cactuses and other succulents.

Plants recommended for bathrooms

1. Plants that would thrive in most bathrooms: Spider plants, Areca Palm, Aspidistra elatior, Ficus Benjamina, Aglaonema, Peace Lily

Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)

2. Plants for Low-light Bathrooms
• Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra elatior)
• Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata "Bostoniensis")
• Heart-Leafed Philodendron (Philodendron oxycardium)
• Ficus Benjamina
• Aglaonema (Chinese Evergreen)
• Bamboo
• Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
• Orchid
• Spider plant
• Begonia

Aglaonema crispum

3. Plants for Bright and Sunny Bathrooms
• Orchid
• Azalea
• Kimberly fern
• Gardenia
• Asparagus fern

Gardenia

4. Colorful flowers for bathrooms

Begonias (great in a hanging basket over the tub)

Orchids (perfect on a shelf or windowsill)

Orchids

Placing houseplants in the bathroom, such as near the sink or near the shower, create a pleasant atmosphere to the bathroom. You can smell fresh fragrance and you can feel in touch with nature. Comfort your body and clean your mind with natural plants. You can enjoy a spa or steam showers with the companion of your bathroom houseplants. If there is a way to install a ceiling hook in your shower, hanging plants also are ideal for bathrooms, adding a decorative touch. Choose your favourite houseplants now and start decorating your bathroom with the houseplants! For more decoration ideas, Taps4Less.com offers your choice of taps, bathrooms, bathroom accessories, bathroom suites, bathroom furniture, bathroom cabinets, baths, bath tubs, shower enclosures, shower valve etc..

Bulbs And Tubers

2007-03-25T04:11:00.000-07:00

Miniature Lemon Jonquils

Plants that have bulbs and tubers are perennials, their main characteristic being the formation of an underground storage organ which is the basis of life of the same or a substitute plant in the following vegetative period.

The one-year vegetative cycle is typical of this group, during which the plant forms its aerial organs, flowers, usually seeds, and accumulates nutritional substances in the underground storage organ for further vegetation. Each vegetative period is concluded with a dormant period, the beginning of each cycle being at the same time the end of the previous one. The course of the growing cycle in different genera and species does not keep to the same timetable, but it always lasts one year. The whole cycle takes place over a period of twelve months, though the beginnings and ends may not correspond to the beginning and end of the calendar year.

Blue Hyacinth

According to the calendar, almost all plants of this group would have to be considered as biennials, as their vegetative cycle most nearly approaches the group of flowering biennials, such as pansies, daisies and forge-me-nots. Basically, biennials are also annual plants, whose vegetative cycle covers part of two calendar years.

The beginning of the vegetation of the various genera of bulbous and tuberous plants varies, being dependent on the advent of favourable climatic conditions that trigger off the beginning of the life cycle. However, no new vegetative cycle can begin until after the completion of the last one. This fact must be taken into account when cultivating these plants in the garden, and especially not forgotten when forcing flowers.

Phalaenopsis, Golden Treasure Yellow Moth

The beginning of the growing cycle of bulbs, corms and tubers is not usually the same as the time when the aerial parts of the plant are formed. Indeed, this may be considered a major characteristic feature of this group of plants. Whereas in the majority of perennials the new growing period starts with physiological and biological changes in the parts of the plant that are above ground, in bulbs and tubers considerable changes occur first in the underground storage organs, from which the aerial parts only grow later.

In generative reproduction, only in the first year of their lives do bulbs behave like most other plants. Their life cycle starts with the germination of the seed and the formation of the first vegetative organs. Soon afterwards comes the foundation and development of the underground storage organ (the bulb or tuber), the main organ of these plants. The moment the bulb comes into being, the plants start to differ from others and become, not only biologically but morphologically, true members of their group.

Bulbs and tubers are cultivated in gardens for two reasons; partly for decoration (the ornamental part of the garden), and partly for cutting (the useful part of the garden). Some plants are more suitable for planting out of doors, others are more effective cut, and displayed in vases. An example of flowers that are much more decorative and lasting in vases than in flowerbeds is gladioli.

Pink Gladioli

Flowers planted in the ornamental part of the garden should beautify it for as long as possible, so it is not suitable to use them as cut flowers. This applies especially to tulips, lilies, daffodils, snowdrops, snowflakes and fritillaries.

One of the most important and special qualities of many species of bulbs is that the flowers can easily be brought on or forced, even in the most critical winter months or early spring. Owing to lack of light in the winter, most other plants cease flowering, so it is mostly flowers from bulbs that herald the approaching spring into our parks and gardens.

Uses of bulbous and tuberous plants are as follows:

For decorative planting in gardens
For planting outdoors for cutting
For cultivation in pots indoors
For bringing on and forcing

Purchase your favourite bulbs and tubers at Petals or Spring Hill Nursery. Lots of discount coupons can be found at Coupon Chief. Start your your kitchen or vegetable garden with these coupon deals. Surprise your love ones with beautiful bouquets of flowers gifts, saying "I Love You" or "I Miss You", anytime and anywhere. In addition, you may send your mum flowers this coming Mother's Day using these coupons!

Plants For Roof Gardens

2007-02-08T22:19:00.000-08:00

It must be borne in mind that the amount of soil from which the plants obtain water and nutrients is essentially limited in a roof garden and the choice of plants is limited accordingly. Nevertheless, there still exist a large number of plant species and their cultivars which can be successfully grown in such conditions. First of all, there are various bulbous and tuberous plants, perennials, rock garden plants, decorative grasses and deciduous as well as evergreen woody plants, including several conifers. Always remember, however that the plants in a roof garden are permanently exposed to extreme conditions -- sunscorch, wind and frost -- and protection will have to be provided for them.

The basic element of each garden -- a stretch of lawn, be it even the smallest one -- should never be omitted. For this purpose, a layer of soil some 15cm thick will suffice.

The best method of founding a nice 'lawn' in a roof garden is by turfing. Strips of turf must be clean and weedless and be positioned close to each other on a 10cm layer of soil. Cracks between the individual strips should then be filled with a loose garden soil and the lawn lightly treaded down.

Lawns look nice framed with paving stones or concrete, or ceramic slabs arranged in various patterns. Also, large wooden offcuts of varying size can be used. They should be about 15cm high, and well impregnated with a wood preservative before being positioned close to each other. Not only paths, but also larger areas intended for sitting-out places can be paved in this way.

Small patches of lawn can be brightened, particularly in spring, by a number of small bulbs. These are planted in the autumn to make small informal groups. The possible choice covers all garden and botanical crocuses, snowdrops, snowflakes, scillas, grape hyacinths and puschkinias; also narcissi, hyacinths and tulips, including early botanical species.

Nowadays, it is often recommended that you substitute for the lawn carpeting perennials whose aesthetic function is identical to that of the lawn.

A nice heath garden can also be created on a roof. What you need for this particular type of garden is a special soil mixture composed of compost, leaf mould, peat and river sand, with an admixture of bone meal and perlite. To provide good drainage, an adequate bottom layer of coarse sand must be used.

A heath garden should include not only heaths, heathers and related plants, but also conifers and other woody plants. Attention should also be paid to decorative grasses which, if chosen with taste, will enhance and underline the beauty of this section of the roof garden. Also, some rock garden plants are good choices for a heath garden.

A 25 cm layer of good garden soil should be sufficient for most species of low-growing, cushion-forming or creeping plants intended to provide the necessary green or multicoloured patches in the roof garden. It stands to reason that even in such special conditions you should always pay heed to the resultant colour combinations, not only of flowers but also of foliage. Remember that a lesser number of species planted in larger groups makes a better effect.

Schlumbergera (Christmas Cactus)

2006-12-22T00:27:00.000-08:00

Christmas Cactus is the most popular cactus of all and the one most commonly grown, in spite of the fact that many people do not consider it to be a true cactus at all. But it is a cactus, a jungle type, needign more warmth and moisture than the desert cacti.

The Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgesii, is an epiphytic plant native to a small region in the Organ Mountains north of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in South America. Schlumbergera bridgesii grows at mountain altitudes in excess of 5000 feet in cool, dry wooded areas. Under natural conditions, Schlumbergera bridgesii will flower in December, thus the common name Christmas cactus.

The many segments, joined end to end, are true stems (there are no leaves) and the whole plant forms a dense branched bush.

Unscented flowers of an unusual shape and about 3cm across, are freely produced in winter at the end of segments; the typical colour is carmine but varieties exist with flowers of various shapes of red, pink or even white.

Use a rich potting mixture with added peat or leaf mould, and water the plant freely when in bud and flower, feeding every two weeks at this time. Reduce the water somewhat after flowering. Propagation from segments is easy.

Care should be taken when handling the plants as the buds drop easily if the plant is moved.

A related species, Schlumbergera truncata, from the same region blooms a month earlier and is commonly known as Thanksgiving cactus. Both plants grow vegetatively by producing flat, leaf-like stem segments connected at the mid-veins. The two species are similar except Schlumbergera truncata has 2-4 saw-toothed serrates along the leaf/stem margins, cylindrical ovaries, and yellow anthers while Schlumbergera bridgesii has dentate margins, 4-5 angled ovaries, and purple anthers.

Spurges (Euphorbia)

2006-12-21T01:42:00.000-08:00

Common name: Crown Of Thorns

Spurges (genus Euphorbia) are a very large and diverse worldwide group of plants, belonging to the spurge family, or Euphorbiaceae. The botanical name Euphorbia derives from the Greek Euphorbus, physician of king Juba II of Numidia (52-50 BC - 23 AD), in whose honour – or in allusion to his swollen belly – a certain plant he might have used, possibly Euphorbia resinifera, was named. In 1753 Carolus Linnaeus assigned the name to the entire genus.

This delightful little shrub, only slightly succulent, is very popular as a houseplant, and deservedly so, as it is more suited to a well-lit living-room window in winter than to the average colder green house, where it will certainly lose its long leaves, and probably its life also!

Like all members of the family Euphorbiaceae, all spurges have unisexual flowers. In Euphorbia these are greatly reduced and grouped into cyathia called pseudanthia. There are also (monoecious) species with male and female flowers on the same plant and those (dioecious) with male and female flowers occurring on different plants. It is not unusual for the central cyathia of a cyme to be purely male, and for lateral cyathia to carry both sexes. Sometimes young plants or those growing under unfavourable conditions are male only, and only produce female flowers in the cyathia with maturity or as growing conditions improve. The bracts are often leaf-like, sometimes brightly coloured and attractive, sometimes reduced to tiny scales. The fruits are three (rarely two) compartment capsules, sometimes fleshy but almost always ripening to a woody container that then splits open (explosively). The seeds are 4 angled, oval or spherical with or without a caruncle.

The plant's great attraction is its brilliant scarlet flower-like bracts, about 1.5cm across, produced freely in spring and summer. There is also a yellow version.

The latex (milky sap) of spurges acts as a deterrent for herbivores as well as a wound healer. Usually it is white, but in rare cases (e.g. E. abdelkuri ) yellow. As it is under pressure, it runs out from the slightest wound and congeals within a few minutes of contact with the air. Among the component parts are many di- or tri-terpen esters, which can vary in composition according to species and in some cases the variant may be typical of that species. These terpen ester determine from species to species if the latex is slightly or very caustic and irritating to the skin, and especially if in contact with mucous membranes (eyes, nose, mouth) can produce extremely painful inflammation. In experiments with animals it was found that terpen ester resiniferatoxin had an irritating effect 10,000 to 100,000 times stronger than capsaicin, the "hot" substance found in chillies. Terpen ester was also found to be carcinogenic. Therefore handling spurges needs to be done with caution. Latex coming in contact with the skin, should be washed off immediately and thoroughly. Partially or completely congealed latex is often no longer soluble in water, but can be removed with an emulsion (milk, hand-cream). With inflammation of a mucous membrane a doctor needs to be consulted. If cutting large succulent spurges in a greenhouse, it has been noticed that vapours from the latex spread and can cause severe irritation to the eyes and air passages several metres away. Caution is therefore required and for example ensure sufficient ventilation. Small children and domestic pets should never come into contact with spurges.

If the stems become too long, encourage more bushy growth by cutting them down to size; this also provides ample cuttings for spare plants. Keep any sap away from your eyes or mouth.

Let the pieces dry for a few days and pot up; they should root fairly easily in spring and summer. Grow this euphorbia in any good loam- or peat-based potting mixture, and water freely in spring and summer. Avoid cold draughts in winter.

Caring For Cacti & Succulents

2006-12-20T23:55:00.000-08:00

Almost always teamed together, cacti and succulents have lots in common and several important distinctions. Cacti are part of the succulent family. All cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti. There are hundreds of different types of cacti. The word succulent simply means juicy and fleshy. All succulents have the ability to store water in their flesh. Cacti are succulents with spine cushions called areoles that can bear spines and/or flowers but the plants do not have branches or leaves. Succulents do not have areoles and can have branches and leaves.

To select a healthy cactus or succulent, look for a plant with good color. It should be in a pot large enough to provide the plant stability. Look for signs of recent growth and check to make sure it is firmly rooted.

Situation And Temperature
Almost all cacti and most other succulents can be overwintered at a temperature of 5 degree celsius if kept dry, and cacti grown for flowers usually need this cold winter rest; indoors the window of an unheated room is the best place.

Good light is essential for most succulents, and indoors the sunniest window should normally be used, remembering that the light is one-sided and the plants should be turned occasionally. In sunnier climes full sun in a greenhouse can cause scorching. The risk is reduced by good ventilation and few plants will scorch anywhere in the open air.

Potting mixtures and potting
Cacti and other succulent plants do not require an elaborate potting mixture; the mixture really only needs to be well-drained. Either peat or loam-based mixtures will do, but it is usually an advantage to mix in about one third of extra drainage material such as sharp sand or perlite, as the one thing all these plants dislike is any degree of water logging of the soil.

Potting on -- that is, transferring to a larger pot -- is necessary when the plant has formed a mass of roots; it may or may not be necessary every year, depending on the rate of growth of the particular plant.

Repotting can be carried out by shaking off as much of the old potting mixture as possible from the roots and replacing the plant in the same pot (thoroughly cleaned first) in fresh mixture. Spiny plants can be held in a fold of newspaper. The best time for this is early spring, at the beginning of the growing season; withhold watering for a few days afterwards to enable the roots to recover.

Watering and Feeding
Most succulents grow in spring and summer when water can be freely given each time the potting mixture appears almost dry. In winter, any surplus water can easily cause rotting and complete dryness is normally necessary with green house plants, but indoors an occasional watering may be needed to prevent undue shriveling.

Many succulents, notably the freely flowering ones, benefit from a dose of fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer. A high-potassium type, such as is designed for tomatoes, should be used. But plants in soilless, peat-based potting mixtures, which contain no natural food, will need this throughout the growing season.

Propagation
Succulent plants can be raised from seed, which unless bought from a specialist nursery will probably be 'mixed'. Sow as for any greenhouse perennial at a temperature of 18-24 degree celsius. Be in no hurry to prick out; most seedlings can remain in the same pan for a year, unless very crowded. Keep them slightly moist and not too cold for their first winter. Plants that form offsets can be propagated by removing one or more, allowing them to dry for a few days to reduce the risk of rot before potting them.

Pests
The main pest of these plants is the mealy bug, often seen as white cotton-wool patches and sometimes mistaken for a fungus. The pest itself hides within this, but sometimes appears, looking like a miute white woodlouse. Treatment with a proprietary spray will usually control these bugs. But watch out for a more insidious relative, the root mealy bug, when you are repotting; minute white pateches on the roots indicate this. Dip teh infected roots in an insecticide before repotting and water occasionally with a similar substance.

Cacti And Succulent Plants

2006-12-19T23:55:00.000-08:00

Picture of Cacti and Succulent Garden

Cacti are succulent to varying degrees and belong to one family, the Cactaceae, whereas succulents can belong to many different plant families. They all have in common the ability to store water in their tissues in order to survive periods of drought, and this makes them ideal plants for the busy or forgetful person; many can survive days or even weeks of dryness.

Picture of rhipsalis chloroptera

Cacti in particular can be divided into desert and jungle types; the latter live on trees as epiphytes, often in association with orchids, in tropical rain forests. Epiphytes use trees for support only; they are not parasites. Such cacti are represented by the epiphyllums, rhipsalis species (picture above), the Christmas cactus(picture below), and similar plants.

Picture of Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesi) - Christmas Cactus is a favorite holiday seasonhouse plant, but one which needs careful attention to details if it is to live and flower again the next year. It is closely related to Easter Cactus (Schlumbergera gaertneri) and Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncatus), all with fleshy, flattened, segmented joints and showy flowers ranging in color from white through pink, red and purple. These are cacti which in nature live in the crotches of jungle trees, and benefit from light, porous soil mixed with leafmold and sand.

Often any thick-leaved or spiny plant is called a cactus, sometimes incorrectly. A unique feature of cacti is the "areole", a small, pin- cushion-likek structure arranged in numbers over the stems, from which any spines or hairs grow. All cacti have areoles but they are not always easy to see. The cactus flower is also characteristic and is often large and beautiful.

Many cacti bloom annually; but a few can never become large enough in an average amateur collection to do so. Cacti are 'stem succulents', that is, water is stored in greatly thickened stems and, apart form the exception mentioned earlier (the pereskias, picture on the left) and a few other rarities, they have no real leaves.

Other succulent, coming as they do from many different families, have flowers as diverse as the families themselves. They have no areoles; any spines resemble rose thorns. Some African euphorbias are virtually leafless, and with their ribbed, thorny, succulent stems they closely resemble cacti.

Picture of euphorbia

Cacti come from the American continent and those found elsewhere in the world have been introduced at some time in the past. Many other succulents are native to Africa.

Peaceful Garden Dream

2006-12-18T21:56:00.000-08:00

Close your eyes and think for a moment. What do you think is the greatest achievement in your life that can bring you peace and happiness? Everybody needs a home, a shelter over the head. Regardless of the location, the size, and the architecture, a home serves the most important function of accomodation. No matter how rich or poor you are you need a home.

To have a garden is what a lot of people hope to have. A peaceful garden brings you peaceful relaxation after a stressful day. A peaceful garden not only can allow you to stroll with your love ones, it also allows you to stroll or spend peaceful moment alone at time when you need to be alone. Close your eyes and think, what can be more peaceful than to indulge in your own garden, sitting among your favourite flowers and plants, inside a gazebo, listening to the birds (if any) and watching beautiful butterflies visiting your garden. Most important of all, you feel so much refreshing in the garden -- fresh air and the fragrance of the garden. Imagine everyday, you can have your breakfast and dinner in your own garden, isn't it marvellous? When you feel bored or sick of the stale air at home, you want to lie down and feel in touch of nature, don't you want to lie down on the grass, under a tree probably or just stay in the garden to read your favourite book. Which do you feel more peaceful -- lying down in your own garden or lying down in a public garden or park? Obviously the answer is the former. A public garden or park sometimes can bring danger to you instead of peace. You stand a chance of theft, sexual assault or harassment, and there is no privacy too.

To have a home to live in is important. To add pleasure and bliss to your home require you to work hard for it. We know the importance of garden, and it is not everyone's capabilities to have a big garden. So close your eyes again, and think of your ideal home. Where should your ideal home be located? Residing in different countries can mean different types of weather and you have different types of garden, with differing range of plants and flowers that could be grown in that climate there. Then you have to think of what kind of properties you want to own. This depend on your financial circumstances of course. This would greatly determine your ideal dreams will come true a not.

Having a big home with big garden is what everyone dream to have. However, not all people can afford to have such luxury. With the population of the world and the land we have, it is also not feasible to have all landed properties too. With these in mind, a lot of properties now are now smaller and have more built-up area. They are more flats, apartments and condominiums as compared to terraces and bungalows. But these do not deter high-rise dwellers to stop having their garden dreams. Using their own creativities and knowledge, container gardens, box gardens, balcony gardens or window gardens are often seen in these buildings. There is much lesser restrictions from these gardens -- you cannot lie on grasses, you cannot put garden furnitures, you cannot put garden fences, you cannot stroll in a garden path! Though lesser restriction, the fulfillment of these garden can be equally good if you put your effort and creativity in your creation of one of these garden.

Do you yearn for a home like Winchester House, with a big garden and nice scenery? If you hope to have a cottage or a victorian home and a peaceful victorian garden, you should work at it. Remember, close your eyes, dream of your ideal home -- where it is situated, the kind of weather it has, how big your home is, when you open your house, what sort of sceneries you desire. Do you hope to walk in a trail of flowers path everyday when you go to work or do you want to be facing the 'walls' (corridors, taking lifts, walking staircase, especially for flat dwellers) everyday when you go to work? Or do you want your children to play safely in your own garden or let them play in the public park?

Property Mart Overseas focuses on properties to buy overseas. For Property Spain, Overseas Properties, Apartments/houses or other properties to buy Abroad visit Property Mart Overseas.

Balcony Plants III

2006-12-10T06:43:00.000-08:00

Easy To Grow Balcony Plants

9. Kalanchoe blossfeldiana (Flaming Katy)

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is a flowering rosette plant up to 35cm in height, with fleshy, dark green leaves and clusters of small red flowers borne on tall stems. Flowering is from late winter to early summer, though plants may be forced into early flowering for sale at Christmas time.

A bright position with some sun encourages a good show of flowers. Keep Kalanchoe in a moderate environment. The ideal positions would be a south-facing window in winter, east or west facing in spring and summer. Water it sparingly at all times and feed every two weeks while in flower. After flowering, trim back the growth and let the plant rest in partial shade, with the compost barely moist, for about one month. It is a short-day plant and will not bloom a second season if kept too light in between times. Repot in a soil mixture, in a larger pot only if this seems necessary.

10. Hypoestes (Polka Dot Plant)

The species sold as a houseplant is Hypoestes sanguinolenta, meaning 'blood-spotted', and Hypoestes is very popular for its decorative foliage, olive-green dappled with pink. Small lilac flowers may appear in summer, but these are usually insignificant. An older plant will become straggly and the maximum effective height is about 35cm, when stems may need some support. Pinching out of growing tips encourages bushy growth, but Hypoestes is generally regarded as a short-lived plant and discarded when leaf-growth becomes sparse.

The plant grows quickly and should be potted on as necessary in loam-based soil. Water moderately at all times and mist the leaves to maintain humidity. A warm temperature is required, as is good light to preserve the leaf markings. Take stem cuttings, keeping them warm and moist, to replace an aging plant.

11. Hedera ( Ivy )

There are many varieties of small leaved Ivies bred from Hedera helix, the common Ivy. They are vigorous plants that trail or climb, and may be variegated with cream, white or yetllow. Hedera canariensis, Canary Island Ivy, is a popular species with larger leaves that are heavily marked with cream and grow on red stems. Varieties of Hedera helix cling naturally, but Hedera canariensis must be tied to or interwoven with its support.

Variegated Ivies need some bright light, filtered or indirect as the sun's hottest rays can cause scorching. They tolerate a broad range of temperatures and should be given a more humid atmosphere in an environment over 18 degree celsius. Water moderately at all times and reduce watering in winter months to allow a brief rest. Pot on if roots emerge through the drainage holes of the pot. Prune the growth as necessary and use the pruned stems as cuttings. These root in water or moist, loam-based compost.

12. Guzmania (Orange Star)

In common with other bromeliads, Guzmania has a rosette of leaves forming a natural cup at the center; unlike other popular types, the leaves are soft and ribbon-like rather than tough and fleshy. They are a glossy, rich green marked with fine red lines. In winter a flower spike grows from the cup; it consists of red or orange bracts that last a few months; short-lived flowers, white or yellow, arise from the bracts. The plant grows about 38cm tall; the leaves arch gracefully outwards.

Bright light, a warm environment and continuous moisture are the requirements of this plant. Keep compost moist and also pour water into the cup and over the foliage from time to time, adding a liquid feed every two weeks except during flowering . The plant is shallow-rooting and may not need potting on. Offsets growing at the base can be detached and potted up in spring.

Balcony Plants II

2006-12-09T05:15:00.000-08:00

Easy To Grow Balcony Plants

5. Philodendron scandens

Philodendrons are erect or climbing plants with tough, glossy leaves. The most popular is Philodendrons scandens, with heart-shaped, dark green leaves, each about 10cm long. Philodendrons hastatum has more elongated, almost triangular leaves. Both grow up to 1.8m and need the support of canes or a sturdy pole. Philodendrons bipinnatifidum has erect stems and spreading, deeply cut leaves; it will grow to about the same total height as the climbers.

Philodendron will live in a bright but not sunny position, or in a lightly shaded spot. The absolute minimum temperature should be 13 degree celsius, but above this it tolerates a wide range. High humidity encourages strong growth. Water the compost moderately, allowing a winer rest period of near-dryness. Provide a weak feed with each watering while the plant is actively growing. Pot on when roots fill the containers, in a mixture of peat and loam.

6. Peperomia magnoliifolia

Peperomia magnoliifolia is a compact plant about 30cm high, with oval, glossy, dark green leaves; there is a variegated form with yellow leaf-markings. Peperomia obtusifolia is similar in its erect, bushy habit, but has purple stems and purplish leaf-margins. Peperomia caperata is a more spreading plant with heart-shaped, heavily textured leaves and tall white flower spikes in summer.

Peperomias thrive in bright light with some mild sunshine. From a winter minimum of 13 degree celsius they tolerate the range of normal room temperatures, but need high humidity if kept warm. Use tepid water to moisten the compost, which should be allowed to dry out partially between waterings. From spring to autumn add a half-strength liquid feed every two weeks. Pot in a peaty, soil-less compost but keep the plants confined. They rarely need repoting and will live happily in a maximum 12.5cm pot.

7. Swiss Cheese Plant ( Monstera Deliciosa )

Always among the ten most popular houseplants, the swiss cheese plant is so called for its huge glossy leaves, deeply cut or perforated from edge to centre. It lasts many years and will grow to a height of 3m, but can even double that size in time. It also has a very broad spread, with mature leaves up to 60cm across, and will need the support of canes or a sturdy pole.

From spring to autumn give the plant indirect light or partial shade and moist conditions. Water and feed it well, keeping the compost moist but not wet. In winter it needs less water and can tolerate full light. Keep leaves dust-free by sponging them gently. Repot the plant every two years in loam compost coarsened with grit or leaf-mould. Top-dress a plant already in a large pot. Aerial roots develop from the plant's main stem; tie them to the stem and train them down into the compost.

8. Maranta (Prayer Plant)

There are several different cultivars of Maranta sold as houseplants. The popular name of Prayer Plant refers to their common habit of folding up their leaves at night. Other names, such as Herringbone Plant or Rabbit's Tracks, indicate the type of leaf markings to be seen. The broad oval leaves, up to 12.5cm long, grow on stalks from a sheathed stem and spread outwards rather than upwards.

Marantas must have warm, moist conditions; maintain a minimum temperature of 18 degree celsius if possible, though 10 degree celsius is just tolerated in winter. Low light is preferred. This is because sunshine fades the leaves. Water generously from spring to autumn, sparingly in winter and supply weak liquid feeds during active growth. Spray or sponge leaves, but do not apply leaf chemicals. Pot on each spring, if necessary, in loam-based compost. The plants have shallow-rooting. Divide large clumps during repotting.

Balcony Plants I

2006-12-08T04:02:00.000-08:00

Plants in containers need no special care throughout the year. However, they welcome occasional loosening of the soil with a wooden peg, removal of weeds and in dry weather, sufficient watering accompanied by regular feeding in the growing period. Below are a list of easy to grow plants for your balconies.

Easy To Grow Balcony Plants
1. Peace Lily

Common varieties: Spathiphyllum wallisii, Spathiphyllum clevelandii, Spathiphyllum floribunda

S. wallisii grows about 30cm high; the cultivar 'Mauna Loa' attains about twice that size. Both have lance-shaped, glossy leaves borne on separate stalks growing directly from a rhizome. The flower is a broad white spathe surrounding a long white or creamy spadix. It lasts about tow months, gradually turning green.

In summer the plant should be placed in bright filtered or indirect light, but it can stand mild sun in winter. An even temperature of 18 degree celsius all year round is ideal; the plant rests if it is too cold or too warm. Keep up high humidity and spray leaves frequently in the warmer months. Aways allow the top layer of compost to dry out between waterings and feed the plant occasionally throughout the year. Pot on annually, in loam or peat mixture, up to a 20cm pot size. To propagate, divide the rhizome base, taking sections with two or three leaves attached.

2. Miniature Rose

Indoor roses are varieties or hybrids of the dwarf rose rosa chinensis. They make attractive, upright bushes, about 30cm high. The slender stems rarely carry thorns. Flowers may be single or double-petalled, in white, pink, yellow, red or coral.

Miniature roses must have as much alight as possible. Place them in a bright window and if possible, stand them close to a fluorescent light in the evening. They do well in a temperature range from 10 degree celsius to 21 degree celsius and like a fresh, airy atmosphere. They overwinter in cold conditions and can be placed outside. Move them from warm, bright summer light to cool winter shade by stages, for the best future growth. Water moderately during active growth and feed fortnightly. Keep the compost, a soil-based mixture barely moist in winter. Prune back the stems and freshen the compost annually, just before new growth begins.

3. Pilea

There are various forms of pilea, which may be creeping or upright plants. The popular Aluminium plant is pilea cadieri; it grows to about 25cm in height and each leaf is marked with silvery patches between the veins, giving a quilted effect. pilea mollis is more heavily textured and has rich bronze colouring around the leaf veins. Pilea involucrata, also known as the Friendship plant because it is easily propagated, has warm, coppery colouring.

Pileas must never be exposed to direct sun and will adapt to indirect light or partial shade. They prefer to be kept warm and humid, tolerating a 10 degree celsius minimum, but they are badly affected by droughts. Keep the compost moist, with a fortnightly feed from spring to autumn, and less damp in winter. Repot only if necessary -- the plants are shallow-rooting, up to 12.5cm pot. Stem cuttings in spring will root in a peat and sand mixture.

4. Geranium

These fast-growing, bushy plants make a marvellous summer display with their bright flower heads, and many have attractively marked leaves. The rounded, bright green leaves of Zonal Pelargoniums are marked with a dark red band; flowers may be single or double, in light sprays or heavy clusters, white, pink, coral, red or mauve. The Regal Pelargonium flowers earlier and has a shorter season; it has showy, frilled flowers and clustered leaves. Smaller ivy-leaved Geraniums are excellent for tubs or hanging baskets.

Bright light and plenty of sunshine are essential. Provide a moderate environment, dry and airy; do not spray leaves or flowers. Keep compost moist in the active period and feed fortnightly. The plants thrive most vigorously if slightly pot-bound. Stem cuttings root readily in summer and can replace older plants. Prune growth severely in autumn, and allow the plant a cool winter rest.

Balcony Gardens

2006-12-06T00:48:00.000-08:00

A balcony can become the most pleasant spot in your home if only it is made use of properly and any plantings are designed as an integral part of the flat. Nowadays, balconies have been transformed into the "backyards" for thousands of apartment, condominium, and townhouse dwellers across the country. Anyone can transform their balconies into a peaceful garden at home.

When choosing subjects for planting, it is always necessary to have an appropriately-sized container for each plant species or cultivar. Tiny, low-growing plants should never be planted in large boxes, bowls or troughs, as their fragile beauty is completely suppressed there. Similarly, too robust plants look incongrous if planted in small containers and will quickly exhaust the soil, and themselves.

The rigid outlines of modern facades usually call for some optical 'softening', which can be best achieved by placing on the balconies and window-sills containers filled with suitable plants.

The furnishings of a balcony can be quite inexpensive and simple. Where there is a shortage of space, a collapsible table and a few wicker or canvas chairs will do. A small sunshade provides necessary shade in summer, and creates privacy.

The most beautiful decoration for balconies is flowers. However, always bear in mind the colour of the building's facade; the flowers used should be in either pleasantly contrasting or complementary colours. As for containers, these can be of various materials, shapes and sizes.

Balcony boxes are usually suspended from the railings on solid iron hooks, either on the inner or outerside of the balcony. If possible, it is always better to think of this while the house is being built, as the construction of a supportive device may cause some difficulties later on. In taller buildings, however, it is advisable to place the boxes inside the balcony because this is safer and the plants will not suffer so much from being buffeted by wind.

Containers planted with flowers can also be placed on the floor of a balcony, along its walls. But as a considerable weight is involved, do check first that th ebalcony is able to bear such a load. The walls can be equipped with variously-shaped wooden trellis or frames, with a wire or nylon fibre stretched to form a support for perennial or annual climbing plants. Many of these produce an extraordinary abundance of beautiful flowers or fruits and most are relatively fast growers. A choice of annual non-climbing plants can be planted beside them.

Where balconies are equipped with iron bars for the purpose of safety, the containers can be suspended on the inner side of these railings. With a suitable choice of plant species, you can soon create a nice green 'curtain' to cover the bars and form a pleasant, shaded retreat.

For a larger balconies, a construction of bamboo sticks, laths or light-metal tubes can be made. Hooks or holders fastened at irregular intervals will bear pots or boxes, preferably lightweight plastic ones, planted with a variety of flowers.

Container gardening is great for your balcony because you can use a number of containers that you may already have at home. By using your creativity, you can create a unique garden out of various containers, including window boxes, hanging baskets and some other pots that you might have at home. Best of all, container gardens are easily maintained by even the most novice of gardeners. Everytime when you want to change the layout of your garden design, moving the containers around is easy too. Strong candidates for container gardens include annuals like pansies and sweet peas as well as such perennials as daylilies and oxalis.

Regardless of what kinds of real estate you own, if you don't have a backyard, nevermind! As long as you have a balcony, you can have a balcony garden of your own. Depending on your creativity, your balcony garden can be a gorgeous garden!

Realtor in Sebastopol, Prudential California Realty (Sonoma County, Healdsburg, Sebastopol,
Guerneville, Santa Rosa) Specializing in West Sonoma County , contact (707) 869-9011

High Rise Garden

2006-11-29T03:31:00.000-08:00

For many people who live in large cities, a garden close to home often remains an unfulfilled dream. Yet this need nto be the case; it is still possible to brighten their environment and bring a little bit of nature within their reach. It may call for a little more ingenuity, but it can be done!

Miniature gardens in the form of window-boxes, troughs, bowls, tubs and other containers placed on balconies, terraces, flat roofs, landings and close to house entrances can, and do beautify many of today's urban dwellings.

This type of gardening offers new possibilities for making use of numerous -- even less well-known plants. However, certain basic principles differing from the common practice of gardening must be taken into account.

The aesthetic relationship of the chosen flower decoration with the various architectural elements is very important. Even the colour of walls to a certain extent influences the choice of plants to be grown. Clearly, a different plant will be chosen to complement a turn-of-the-century stone building than will be selected for a concrete block of flats, condominiums, or a modern family house with its own garden.

Thus for plants lovers staying in apartments, flats or condominium can also have their own garden. Many types of gardens can be created on balconies. With the addition of floral colours, a balcony becomes an entertainment center just right for relaxing. Turf, small shrubs, and dwarf trees can be used to create a suburban landscape in miniature above the ground. Balconies even offer the opportunity for food production, with flowering fruit trees and container-grown herbs and vegetables. ( condominiums point pleasant beach, NJ near bay head and Manasquan NJ 1 block from ocean, steps to NJ transit to mid-town Manhattan )

Lighting

2006-11-28T03:05:00.000-08:00

Lighting in a garden is particularly useful in summerhouses, on terraces and other places intended for sitting out in the evening. It can also be put wherever it makes some corner accessible in the evening or lights up especially attractive or sculptural plants.

Lamps with wicker or straw shades look well in summerhouses that are mostly constructed of timber. Where the walls are of stone or brick, wrought iron, black painted chandelier-type fitments are better.

Lights placed in the garden to illuminate interesting features should have a dull surface or a non-translucent shade, so they throw light only in the required direction. They may be made of metal or plastics, the important thing being that they should not be a disturbing or even unsightly element during the day. This can be resolved by placing them among plants that partially conceal them.

'Clothes' for the windows are important for Summerhouse. Curtains, blinds and shades are various types of 'clothes' for the windows. Curtains can be custom made or purchased according to your liking and style. Blinds also come in various colours, styles and materials of blinds in the market to suit your liking and theme for your summerhouse. When the windows are 'dressed up', it adds beauty to the summerhouse.

During the day, when it is too hot and glaring, the curtains or blinds can be adjusted to control the amount of light coming from the windows into the summerhouse. Other types of shades may be used as well.

When sunlight is not needed as in the night, or in the daytime, when you feel sleepy, and you need to rest in the summerhouse, curtains and blinds can shut off lights from the windows, creating the privacy you needed and the darkness you desired for your peaceful sleep and rest.

Summerhouse

2006-11-27T02:50:00.000-08:00

A Summerhouse is a small roofed building of varying forms in gardens or parks designed to provide cool shady places of relaxation or retreats from summer heat.

If your garden extends some distance from the house, you really need a summerhouse so that you can spend long periods in the garden, whatever the season.

In a big garden, a summerhouse can also be a place to rest, or a shelter from which the garden can be observed even when it is raining. So it should always be situated in a spot with a good view of the landscape or in a pretty corner of the garden.

A summerhouse may house garden furniture and tools, or it can be fitted out with easily protable furniture and a cooking stove and so on, so that meals can be eaten there.

All kinds of material can be used to build a summerhouse, but the most suitable is timber, as this is likely to fit in best with the environment. However, buildings of bricks or concrete blocks do last longer. White plaster combined with dark wood for the shutters or railings looks both nice and natural. Various typs of assembled prefab summerhouses save the trouble of building, and the children can play there when the weather is too unsettled for them to play outdoors.

Whatever material is chosen, the main thing is that the summerhouse should not look out of place, but fit in tastefully with the rest of the garden. This can be achieved by planting climbing plants around the building so that it becomes a part of the surroundings.

Garden Paths

2006-11-07T05:13:00.000-08:00

Garden paths are not merely functional, connecting the most frequented parts of the garden, they are also important artistic elements.

The placing of paths must be well thought out before you start to lay them down. All paths shold be usable in all weathers, even during prolonged spells of rain or frost. Also, they should not need a great deal of care, but always look pleasing.

The path from the garden gate to the front door of a house ususally takes the shortest route. All the other paths, betwen the house and the sitting-out place, the garage, pool or kitchen garden need not take the shortest route, but they should facilitate views of the prettiest parts of the garden.

Concrete Paths: Although concrete lasts well and is relatively cheap and practical, its use in a garden is questionable from the aesthetic point of view. It must be regarded not only from the functional aspect, but the way the concrete surfaces are arranged.

Paths contribute considerably to the general design of the garden. They must be safe and comfortable, with a well-kept surface, and always in agreement with the character of the garden. Very important are the edges which keep out the surrounding vegetation. The edging stones or bricks should be laid before the layer of gravel. They must be set deeper than the bottom of the dug-out bed of the future path, and always below the level of the surrounding terrain.

Natural stone paths: Natural stone is the most appropriate paving material for informal gardens set in a rural landscape. The type of stone should be chosen carefully, both from the aesthetic and practical points of view. Sand-yellow or ochre shades go well with a lawn. If the stones are too light they are inclined to dazzle in bright sunlight. Also, they should have a rough surface so that they do not become dangerously slippery in wet or frosty weather.

All paths need both a lengthwise and a transverse gradient, so that no water stands on them. On level ground the path must have a transverse gradient from the center to both sides. If it leads along a slope the gradient should be to one side, following the slope. A lengthwise gradient should be half to one centimetre per linear metre. At the lowest point there should be an outlet, which can either lead to the drains or to a sump, so that no puddles form.

Wood paving: A paving of wooden offcuts is very effective, but it is not suitable for damp situations. The offcuts should be at least 20cm thick and can be of any kind of wood though, of course, hardwood lasts longer. To make this kind of paving more durable each piece should first be dipped into a preservative solution and left to dry. The part of the offcut to be inserted into the ground can also be immersed in liquid asphalt and then laid in a bed of sand, so that it does not rot. Take care in the distribution of offcuts of varying thickness with a view to achieving a regular effect, with the thickest at the sides. Then scatter the paving with sand and thoroughly water it in, so that sand reaches deep into all the cracks.

Garden Furniture

2006-11-06T04:53:00.000-08:00

A garden must be equipped with furniture so that it can be really lived in. In choosing this, the basic requirements are that it should be comfortable, easily transportable, sufficiently stable, weather-proof, easy to store and should fit in well with the character of the garden. Too bright colours and extreme variations of shape should be avoided.

There is a wide selection of various types of furniture on the market. The least resistant to weather is that made of wicker and bamboo. All sorts of swinging seats or loungers with canvas canopies are very popular, as are deck chairs and other folding chairs. If you do not like what is on sale, you can always make your own furniture.

A convenient bench can can be made of wooden railway sleepers. One sleeper makes the seat, another halfas wide, the back. They can be fixed to a high wall by being strung on two to three metal pipes let into the wall. The bench may be cut to any required length.

A bench that looks well in a naturally designed garden can be made from a tree-trunk with a diameter of about 30cm. Simply cut the trunk in two, lengthwise. A pedestal can be made at each end using either thinner trunks or large stones.

Simple portable seats can be made from logs cut into 40cm pieces which can be placed wherever needed.

A set of table and chairs can be made of round wood offcuts. Best are maple ones with a diameter of 40-50cm and about 10cm high. These make the chairs when each has a 25x25cm metal plate with a welded-on pipe in the middle screwed on to the underside. This is then fitted on to another, narrower pipe fixed into the ground with concrete and stickin gup 35cm above the surface. A table can be made in the same way, but the top of it should have a diameter of at least 80cm and be 15cm thick. The best height for the table is 75cm. The seats should be positioned some 70cm distant from the table. In winter they can be lifted from their pedestal stands and stored in a dry place.

Garden Architectural Features

2006-11-05T04:33:00.000-08:00

In the past, particularly in baroque times, many works of art were placed in parks and gardens. In a modern garden too, statues and other works of art can be used to increase its aesthetic value. The effect of any owrk of art is enhanced by certain surroundings, and there is no doubt that buildings, pieces of sculptural art and plants are all mutually complementary.

Of course, the choice of any work of art depends on personal taste. And not only statues, wall reliefs and ceramic pots can be used to beautify a garden, but also useful objects with a decorative element, such as bird baths, flower bowls and sundials. Even big stones with interesting shapes, found in their natual setting -- say, when walking along a beach -- can be very effective in a garden.

Not only the selection of a work of art but its placing in the garden needs sensitive handling. A simple statue can hold its own even when there are striking and multiform plants in its neighbourhood, but an elaborate or large-scale work of art can only be properly appreciated in calm surroundings, for instance against a background of evergreens.

An important role is played by the ration of size between the artefact and the garden. It must be remembered that out of doors everything tends to look smaller than it does in a house. The pedestal should also be relatively big.

A garden must not be overcrowded with art objects, or it will look like gallery or storehouse.

Evolution Of A Garden

2006-11-04T01:37:00.000-08:00

No garden is ever completely finished; it is always at a certain stage of development. Its cultivation involves us in endless creative activity. We are constantly influencing its evolution towards what we want of the garden as a whole. So any plans for creating or altering a garden must take into account the aspects of space and time.

The first thing that is subject to change is the garden's economic yield. For instance, after planting apple trees we have to wait for several years before they bear much fruit. This time gap can be billed in by the cultivation of soft fruit, such as currants, gooseberries, raspberries and blackberries and strawberries.

The decorative garden also changes from year to year. In the early stages, when especially the newly planted trees and shrubs are small, it is not very effective aesthetically. It sometimes takes many years for a garden to attain its full aesthetic effect. But this wait for the desired result can be compensated for by strategic short-term planting to create a 'temporary beauty'. These plants, too, will later be discarded or restricted according to the progress of those planted for more long-term effectiveness.

These decorative short-term plantings may be of many kinds. In the first instance, use can be made of quick-grwoing shrubs, which provide a tall, thick screen in a relatively short time. However, care must be taken that they do not compete too strongly with other plants. It often happens that these 'temporary' plants push our or weaken those intended to be permanent, so that the original aim is never fulfilled, or at best becomes still more distant. To avoid such possiblilities, plant temporary, quick-growin gwoody plants at some distance from those that you intend should remain permanently.

Another way is to plant long-term shrubs more closely together than usual, so that their foliage grows together more quickly and the desired overall effect is achieved sooner -- a compact and pleasant mass of green. This kind of thick planting is suitable from the biological and technological point of view too. The thick growth of the shrubs makes for a more favourable microclimate, important for instance in dry sites. There is also less danger of infestation by weeds, and this favourable effect, in turn, improves the growth of the plants.

Bushes make a good thick growth, but trees can also be used. These thick growths may be either permanent or temporary, but care must be taken if the two are mixed, because when endeavouring to thin out the temporary ones later there is considerable risk of damaging the permanent stock.

To guarantee the aesthetic effect of temporary groups of plants they must be chosen to group well together. For instance a young group of low, spreading junipers may be thickened with medium-high perennial grasses, the low-growing garden roses look well in a group of pine trees and so on.

Harmonious Garden

2006-11-02T23:32:00.000-08:00

The principles of harmony and contrast can be used in designing a garden either independently or combined. There can be harmony or contrast between groups of colours, light and shade, form and line.

A harmonious picture can most often be achieved by grouping together partially similar elements -- in terms of colours or shapes, for instance, various shades of green or a repetition in various sizes of the same shape of plants. Basically harmony is reptition, but never exact reptetition; it permits small changes.

Also, a harmonious picture may be formed by changing the grouping of identical elements, such as having one species of plants concentrated in thick compact groups in one part of hte garden, but spaced out or even single specimens in another part. Harmonious compositions give an impression of calm bacause they are free of sudden changes, contrasts and tension.

Contrast can be attained by grouping opposites together, whether the opposite factor be one of size, shape, colour, structure, light and shade, the system of lines or whatever. Contrast is one of the most powerful means of expression, as it attracts attention and enlivens and brightens the composition. That is why shady areas should be alternated with well-lit ones, light-coloured statues placed in front of dark backgrounds and so on. It is also effective to combine contrasts of stillness and movement that show up best on close observation, such as the movement of a frothy waterfall descending on the calm surface of a pond.

The incorrect or excessive use of contrast, however, leads to disquiet, fragmentation and lack of truth. Both harmony and contrast must be used in reasonable measure. An excess of harmony makes the composition dull, an excess of contrast makes it confused and breaks up the view.

Artistic Garden

2006-11-01T22:42:00.000-08:00

People spend a great deal of time not only in their homes but also in their gardens; children grow up there and family relationships are formed. For these very good reasons, the artistic effect of this environment should not be a matter of indifference. If we think of a garden from this point of view we shall consider its beauty to be a vital feature -- quite as important as its economic yield.

A beautiful garden does not come into being througha random collection of beautiful items. If, at the same time, we do not plan their mutual artistic relationships the result -- at best, will be a collection of beautiful items, but not a beautiful garden. No exact rules can be laid down for planning an artistic garden, because allowance must be made for individual tastes,m but at least some generally valid aesthetic principles can be given.

The artistic planning of a garden is basically guided by the same generally valid rules that apply in other forms of artistic creation. In the first place it must be based on the aesthetic qualities of all the natural elements used, as these will always be the most essential components. Very important roles are played by the special function of planting, the effectiveness of the forms and textures of the green areas, and also the use of colour, light and shade and so on. Then too, an artistic conception of a garden means that the economic and aesthetic aspects must be regarded as a whole, not separately.

Grouping Plants Artistically A beautiful garden does not take shape automatically, by the mere intorduction of beautiful plants. Good results can only be achieved by respecting the relationships between the plants themselves and between them and the garden as a whole. The beauty of many shrubs, for instance, can only be fully appreciated in certain combinations with other plants, buildings or spaces.

There are two basic principles involved in the artistic planning of a decorative garden, that is, two ways of combining decorative plants. The first groups them according to purely aesthetic rules and relationships, the second according to their natural occurrence in the wild.

Planting According To Aesthetic Rules
1. Group plants according to the colour of their flowers, either so that the colours harmonize or are in pleasing contrast.
2. Associate plants according to similar qualities. For example maples, whith their typical palmately lobed leaves, combine well with plane trees, which have similarly shaped leaves. In a small area of the garden there might be a group linked by the analogous qualities of the various species, for instance a corner of dwarf conifers or one composed of predominantly blue or red flowering plants.

Camellia Facts And Pictures

2006-07-31T01:47:00.000-07:00

On February 18, 1893, Alabama adopted the goldenrod as the official flower—of the United States! On September 6, 1927, it was adopted as Alabama's state flower. The yellowhammer was adopted as the state bird on the same day.

In 1927, the goldenrod was designated as state flower, but was replaced by the camellia, an exotic flower, possibly due to the erroneous idea that goldenrod pollen was annoying to those who are allergy-prone (actually, the goldenrod is falsely blamed for reactions caused by ragweed). Camellia colors include white, pink, red, and mixtures. Some have suggested that red and red-and-white camellias represent the state, matching the red and white of the Alabama flag.

Alabama's state flower is the only symbol not native to Alabama. It's from Asia. Camellias are named for G.J. Kamel, a Jesuit priest who traveled in Asia in the seventeenth century. The introduction of Camellia japonica L. in Italy is dated about 1760, but only during the XIXth century this species became popular. Many Italian nurserymen started growing Camellias at that time and soon this business became of remarkable importance. In two areas, the Lucchesia (Tuscany) and the lake Maggiore zone, camellia production was famous, due to the local nurserymen, breeders, and collectors. In these areas camellias were grown in a great number of gardens and still today it is possible to find old specimens.

Camellias are large, attractive, broad-leaved, evergreen shrubs that are highly prized for their flowers, which bloom from winter to spring. There are more than 2,300 named cultivars registered with the American Camellia Society.

In South Carolina the primary camellias used include cultivars of Japanese camellia (Camellia japonica), Sasanqua camellia (C. sasanqua), tea-oil camellia (C. oleifera), other species (C. sinensis or tea camellia) and many hybrids using two other species extensively (C. reticulata and C. salvenensis).

Camellia japonica 'Spring Fever'

A mulch of peat will help keep the roots cool in summer. They flower in the spring, ie August to October in our southern gardens. The flowers are showy and come in a range of colours from white to pink to rosy red. They can be double or single, large (as the Reticulata's) or small (like the Miniatures).

Camellia japonica 'Crimson Candles'

Camellia japonica

2006-07-30T21:08:00.000-07:00

Common Names: camellia, japonicas
Family: Theaceae (tea family)

The Camellia produces flowers up to 5 in (12.7 cm) wide with yellow centers and rounded overlapping petals, much like a rose. The flowers are prized, but so are the glossy leaves that stay a deep, shiny green all year. It is a slow grower, but eventually will reach up to 20 ft (6.1 m) tall. Camellias flower from late winter to early spring. Over 3,000 varieties, cultivars and hybrids of Camellia japonica are cultivated.

A native of China, camellias are a traditional favorite across the southeastern U.S. Throughout the winter, camellias brighten the landscape, from sandy migrant workers' camps to white-columned plantation homes.

Camellias like acid soil with plenty of moisture. Since early morning sun may cause petals to become limp and brown, an ideal location would be west of a structure or barrier wall. Prune in spring after flowering. Keep other plants a safe distance away and apply mulch to protect the camellia's shallow roots.

Growing Tips

These make fine garden plants in sheltered areas if the soil in which they are growing is acid rather than alkaline.

Perhaps not so good for the indoor location, they are nevertheless excellent plants for porches and conservatiories that offer a little shelter from the elements. Plants that are grown from seed sown in the spring, or from cduttings rooted in the autumn, can be purchased in small pots from good retailers.

With careful handling these samll plantgs can be gradually potted on until they are in containers of 25cm in diameter - use the acid soil recommended for camellias at each potting stage, and collect rain water for watering.

In time plants of about 150cm in height will have developed, and in early spring there can surely be nothigun more appealing than camellia blooms in white, pink or red.

Light: Prefers partial shade, but they need more sun in colder climates.

Moisture: Prefers rich moist soil, but is adaptable.

Hardiness: USDA Zones 6-9. Camellias are hardy, but for extra protection, apply mulch and cover flower buds if frost threatens.

Propagation: Take semi-ripe cuttings from late summer to winter (use rooting hormone). Can also be air-layered in spring.

To encourage bloom: Maintain cool condition.

Usage
This very popular shrub is used in borders and in formation hedges. Use it for specimen plants on the lawn and for colorful accents near outdoor living areas. Camellias are especially attractive and easy to grow when planted under a canopy of live oaks and pine trees that provide broken shade. It is tolerant of urban conditions if maintained, and can also be used in containers.

Symbolism
The genus was named for George Kamel, a Jesuit missionary who travelled in Asia and studied the flora of the Philippines. Red camellias symbolize intrinsic worth and white blossoms mean loveliness. Displayed at Korean weddings as far back as 1200 BC, camellias represent longevity and faithfulness.

Camellia

2006-07-29T21:14:00.000-07:00

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Magnoliophyta
Class Magnoliopsida
Order Ericales
Family Theaceae
Genus Camellia

Camellia (Tsubaki in Japanese) is a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae, native to eastern and southern Asia from the Himalaya east to Japan and Indonesia. There is some controversy over the number of existent species, with anything from 100–250 species being accepted. The genus was named by Linnaeus after Fr. Georg Joseph Kamel S.J., a Jesuit botanist.

They are evergreen shrubs and small trees from 2-20 m tall. The leaves are alternately arranged, simple, thick, serrated, usually glossy, and 3–17 cm long. The flowers are large and conspicuous, 1–12 cm diameter, with (in natural conditions) 5–9 petals; colour varies from white to pink and red, and yellow in a few species. The fruit is a dry capsule subdivided into 1–5 compartments, each containing 1–8 seeds.

The genus is generally adapted to acidic soils, and does not grow well on chalk or other calcium rich soils. Most species also have a high rainfall requirement and will not tolerate drought.

Camellia species are used as food plants by the larvae of a number of Lepidoptera species.

Cultivation And Uses

Carmellia sinensis

Carmellia sinensis is of major commercial importance because tea is made from its leaves. Tea oil is a sweet seasoning and cooking oil made by pressing the seeds of Camellia sinensis or Camellia oleifera

Double flowers Camellia

Many other camellias are grown as ornamental plants for their flowers; about 3,000 cultivars and hybrids have been selected, many with double flowers. Camellia japonica (often simply called Camellia) is the most prominent species in cultivation, with over 2,000 named cultivars; next are C. reticulata, with over 400 named cultivars, and C. sasquana, with over 300 named cultivars. Popular hybrids include C. × hiemalis (C. japonica × C. sasquana) and C. × williamsii (C. japonica × C. salouenensis). They are highly valued in Japan and elsewhere for their very early flowering, often among the first flowers to appear in the late winter. Late frosts can damage the flowers.

Camellia japonica 'Myrtifolia'

Camellias have a slow growth rate. Typically they will grow about 30 centimetres a year until mature although this varies depending on variety and location.

Camellia japonica is the state flower of Alabama as well as the city flower of the Chinese municipality Chongqing.

Browallia speciosa (Bush Violet)

2006-07-28T21:07:00.000-07:00

Bush violet is a bushy plant that is covered with violet, blue, or white star-shaped flowers in summer. It grows to 24 inches tall and across, and works well as part of a mixed planting in hanging baskets and window boxes. Unlike other Browallias, the Bush Violet is a perennial that will stay green through winter in areas with mild winters.

The flower colouring of B. speciosa ranges from blue to violet-blue, but there are white varieties available. It should be reasonably easy to raise new plants from seed on the windowsill for the person who is moderately competent with indoor plants.

Sow seed in spring in peat to which a little sharp sand has been added, and after sowing just cover the seed with a fine layer of sand. Place a sheet of glass over the container holding the seed, and over the glass place a sheet of newspaper until the seed has germinated. When large enought to handle, the seedlings can be pricked off into a very peaty mixture with resonable space for seedlings to develop. Subsequently, transfer the tiny plants to small pots filled with loam-based mixture and allow to grow on.

From then on keep them moist, fed, and in good light. Discard the plants after they have flowered.

Special growing tips
Browallia is not suited to cool zones. Outdoors, it grows best in a partially shaded site where it will get the half-day of sun it needs, protected from strong winds. While not fussy about soil type, good drainage is essential; grow only in hanging baskets, containers, or raised beds if drainage is doubtful. Keep the soil evenly moist.

Fertilize with compost or all-purpose fertilizer when the plants start to bud; overfeeding will limit flower production. For bushy, well-branched plants, pinch off the stem tips of young Browallia once or twice. If the plants look tired by midsummer, cut them back by half to encourage new flower production. Grow Browallia from seed sown indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost and left uncovered. Cuttings can be taken at any time.

Pests/problems to look out for: Whiteflies and aphids. Tomato spotted wilt virus and fungal spots may occur.

Winter care: Browallia makes an excellent flowering winter houseplant; dig and pot up six to eight weeks before the first fall frost, cut back the plants severely, and place on a sunny windowsill. Mist the leaves occasionally.

To encourage bloom: Keep plants cool and fed during the summer months.

Schefflera arboricola

2006-07-27T17:48:00.000-07:00

Scientific Classification

Kingdom Plantae
Division Magnoliophyta
Class Magnoliopsida
Order Apiales
Family Araliaceae
Genus Schefflera
Species S. arboricola

Schefflera arboricola (synonymy Heptapleurum arboricolum) is a flowering plant in the family Araliaceae, native to Taiwan and Hainan. It is an evergreen shrub growing to 3-4 m tall, with weak, often trailing stems scrambling over other vegetation. The leaves are palmately compound, with 7-9 leaflets, the leaflets 9-20 cm long and 4-10 cm broad (though often smaller in cultivation). The flowers are produced in a 20 cm panicle of small umbels, each umbel 7-10 mm diameter with 5-10 flowers.

Cultivation And Uses

It is commonly grown as a houseplant, popular for its tolerance of neglect and poor growing conditions. Numerous cultivars have been selected for variations in leaf colour and pattern, often variegated with creamy -white to yellow edges or centres, and dwarf forms. It is also used for bonsai.

Schefflera arboricola

Special Care
Arboricola is started from seed, cuttings and air-layers, and then grown in full sun to produce thick full plants. Usually the arb's you'll find in the garden center will be of the bush form. These bushes are full, round and thick with leaves which measure 4 6 inches across forming a "fingered umbrella". The dwarf scheff is also grown in tree forms, bonsai and braided just like Ficus trees.

Whichever form you get remember that when the plant moves inside it is going to go through a period of acclimating. Expect the plant to thin out and loose some leaves.

The arboricola can adapt to a wide variety of light levels but prefers higher light if possible. If left alone the plant can stretch and grow "out of shape". It's easy to keep them in shape with occasional selective pruning. Fortunately, just like a Ficus the dwarf Schefflera can also handle some radical pruning and come back strongly. So don't be afraid to prune the plant when needed.

Dwarf umbrella plant (Araliaceae)

If you see leaves turning black and dropping off it's a good signal that the soil is staying too wet or moist. On the flip side the leaf tips wrinkle if they are too dry.

These plants have a pretty extensive root system and can even grow climbing a tree. They also seek water when being grown outside. As with most plants used indoors, arboricola does not like to sit in water.

The Schefflera is in the Aralia family and like many of the plants from this family spider mites like this plant. Clean the plant regularly and don't forget the undersides where the mites like to hang out.

Remember when caring for your dwarf schefflera

Don't keep the plant wet
Place the plant in as bright an area as you can
Watch out for mites
Don't be afraid to prune when needed

Norfolk Island Pine

2006-07-26T17:57:00.000-07:00

Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is one of the relatively few conifers of the southern hemisphere. It's reportedly capable of attaining 200 feet in height, but in most tropical areas, seldom exceeds half that. As a landscape tree, it grows ramrod straight with whorled branches arising at right angles to the main trunk. These swoop down in a graceful sweep creating a picturesque form for older trees.

A majestic tropical tree that originates from New Zealand, Araucaria excelsa is a marvellous foliage plant when carefully treated and not subjected to very high temperatures, which can be delilitating. Hot conditions cause normally turgid foliage to droop and become very thin. These elegant plants are best suited to important and spacious locations that will allow full development.

Araucaria excelsa

During early development plants should be allowed to fill their pots with roots before being potted on into slightly larger containers, using a loam-based potting mixture. When going into their final pots of 20 -25 cm diameter, the amount of loam should be increased to encourage slower but firmer growth. New plants can be raised from seed, but it is better to purchase small plants and grow them on. Few pests trouble these pines, but excessive watering, especially in poor light, will cause browning and eventual loss of needles.

A pine tree . . . that can be a houseplant. If you're looking for something green to add to a sunny room in your house, the Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla) is a perfect choice. It is easy to maintain, will grow to fit its container and surroundings, plus can double as a Christmas tree if desired. During the holidays, the Norfolk Island Pine is easy to find at garden and home improvement stores.

Special Care

Norfolk Island pines are considered easy plants to grow if you give them the right conditions. They prefer bright, indirect light, such as an eastern or western exposure where they will get one to two hours of sunlight a day. They do not require as much water as other common houseplants. In fact, they do not tolerate saturated soil. It is difficult to say how often a Norfolk Island pine will need watering.

Pot size, pot type, plant size, average room temperature, room lighting, and humidity all will influence the amount and frequency of watering. A good rule of thumb is to feel the soil. If it feels slightly dry to the touch, apply enough water to allow some to drain out the holes in the bottom of the container. Norfolk Island pines like the soil moist around their roots, but never wet. The lower limbs may turn brown and fall off if the soil is kept too wet or allowed to dry out. Other factors, such as low humidity levels and insufficient light, may also cause the lower limbs to drop off.

Norfolk Island pines do not require much fertilizer. Apply a soluble fertilizer with the watering every three or four months. Use the recommended rate on the label. They resent being repotted so only repot them every three or four years in the spring. Use a well-drained commercial potting soil mix and a container only slightly larger than the one it was growing in.

Avoid overpotting of young plants.

Araucaria

2006-07-25T17:08:00.000-07:00

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Pinophyta
Class Pinopsida
Order Pinales
Family Araucariaceae
Genus Araucaria

Araucaria bidwillii

Araucaria is a genus of coniferous trees in the family Araucariaceae. There are 19 species in the genus, with a highly disjunct distribution in New Caledonia (where 13 species are endemic), Norfolk Island, eastern Australia, New Guinea, Argentina, Chile and Southern Brazil.

Many if not all current populations are relictual and restricted. They are found in forest and maquis shrubland, with an affinity for exposed sites. These columnar trees are living fossils, dating back to early in the Mesozoic age. Fossil records show that the genus also formerly occurred in the northern hemisphere until the end of the Cretaceous period.

The monkey puzzle tree (Araucaria araucana)

The genus is familiar to many people as the genus of the distinctive Monkey puzzle Araucaria araucana. The genus is named after the Arauco Indians of central Chile whose territory incorporates natural stands of this species, where it is known as the Pehuén. These Native Americans, who name themselves the Pehuenche ('people of the Pehuén'), harvest the seeds extensively for food. No distinct vernacular name exists for the genus; many are erroneously called 'pine', despite their being only very distantly related to pines (Pinus).

They are mainly large trees with a massive erect stem, reaching a height of 30-80 m. The horizontal, spreading branches grow in whorls and are covered with leathery or needle-like leaves. In some species, the leaves are narrow awl-shaped and lanceolate, barely overlapping each other, in others they are broad and flat, and overlap broadly.

The trees are mostly dioecious, with male and female cones found on separate trees, though occasional individuals are monoecious or change sex with time. The female cones, usually high on the top of the tree, are globose, and vary in size between species from 7-25 cm diameter. They contain 80-200 large, edible seeds, similar to pine nuts though larger. The male cones are smaller, 4-10 cm long, and narrow to broad cylindrical, 1.5-5 cm broad.

Uses

Some of the species are relatively common in cultivation because of their distinctive, formal symmetrical growth habit. Several species are economically important for timber production and the edible seeds.

Creosote Bush

2006-07-01T00:58:00.000-07:00

Common: Creosote bush, Greasewood, Guamis
Scientific Name: Larrea tridentata
Family: Zygophyliaceae
Origin: Native to deserts of southeastern California, Arizona, southern Utah, western Texas, northern Mexico. Usually grows on dry plains, mesas and slopes, between sea level and elevations of 5,000 feet.
Sunset Zone: 10-13, 19
Light: Full sun
Soil: Sandy and poor soil types
Water: Drought tolerant. Taller, denser growth with water

Creosote, Death Valley Dunes The oldest living thing on earth is a flowering shrub called the creosote bush, found in the Mojave Desert. It is 15 metres (50 ft) in diameter. It is estimated that it started from a seed nearly 12,000 years ago.

During its lifetime the last major period of glaciation in North America came to an end, the wheel and writing were invented, and the great Egyptian and Mayan pyramids were built. The shrub is still living.

The creosote bush (Larrea tridentata) is common in the Desert Southwest. The creosote bush can be identified from its waxy green leaves and yellow flowers. These later turn to round, white wooly seed-vessels, which are the fruit of the creosote bush. In Arizona it is only found in the southern third of the state because it cannot exist above 5,000 feet of elevation. In the Phoenix area, it is the dominant desert shrub.

Many people who are new to the desert notice the peculiar odor in the desert on the rare occasions when we have rain. People who move to the Phoenix area look at each other and ask, “What is that smell?” It is the creosote bush. It is a very unique odor, and although many people don’t care for it, some seem to like it just because it conveys a positive message – RAIN! The leaves of the creosote bush are coated with a resin to prevent water loss in the hot desert. The resin of the creosote bush also protects the plant from being eaten by most mammals and insects. It is believed that the bush produces a toxic substance to keep other nearby plants from growing.

Creosote bushes are very long lived, many of them existing for one hundred years, and can grow to a height of 15 feet. There is one living creosote bush that is estimated to be nearly 12000 years old! Although some refer to the odor of the crushed leaves as the “heavenly essence of the desert,” the Spanish word for the plant, hediondilla, means “little stinker“, signifying that not everyone considers the odor heavenly or pleasing to the senses.

The creosote plant was a virtual pharmacy for Native Americans and the steam from the leaves was inhaled to relieve congestion. It was also used in the form of a medicinal tea to cure such ailments as flu, stomach cramps, cancer, coughs, colds, and others.

Beautiful Garden Bridge

2006-05-19T14:33:00.000-07:00

Information about Fern Plants

Fern Plants will grow just about anywhere, if proper care is given. There is a species of fern that can inhabit nearly every condition on the planet. Fern plants add a nice touch to any garden. There are fern plants that are vividly colored and most will survive best in shaded regions.

There is a species of fern that can inhabit nearly every condition on the planet. Fern plants add a nice touch to any garden. There are fern plants that are vividly colored and most will survive best in shaded regions.

Fern plants differ from other kinds of plants in several ways. One way that ferns differ is how they propagate. Instead of growing from a seed or a flower, fern plants reproduce sexually using spores. Another difference between fern plants and other plants is that they grow in different conditions than most other vascular plants.

Fern plants prefer areas that are wetter and shadier than many other plants.

Beautiful Victorian Gardens

2006-05-18T02:20:00.000-07:00

Information About Growing Ferns

Can you spot the ferns growing around?

Growing ferns differs from growing other types of plants in many ways. First of all, many plants need partial to full sun to be able to survive in a garden. Growing ferns in partial to full sun, on the other hand, will be extremely detrimental to the health of the plants. The natural habitat of many ferns is the rainforest, and they have become accustomed to being shaded and having lots of moisture.

Growing ferns differs from other plants in the amount of moisture needed. Most plants will get along fine when watered a couple times a week at most. Ferns, on the other hand, require constant moisture in both the soil and the air in order to grow properly. Misting the leaves of a fern plant is the best way to mimic the extremely humid atmosphere that the plants are generally local to.

Another difference between growing ferns and growing other perennials is that ferns will often not survive harsh frosts in the winter. Most perennials are used to the cold winter months and build strong root structures in order to survive. Ferns, as they are generally used to living in warmer climates, cannot survive the cold. In order to prevent ferns from dying over the winter, it is often necessary to remove them from the garden and plant them in pots and hanging baskets indoors.

Growing ferns is an enjoyable experience. Many gardeners attempt growing ferns without first understanding the very specific conditions needed for the fern to thrive. Make sure to check with a professional before attempting to grow ferns, as each fern needs slightly different circumstances to thrive.

To Read More Details

Cycas rumphii

2006-05-17T01:56:00.000-07:00

Common Name : Malayan Fern Palm
Scientific Name : Cycas rumphii

Family Cycadaceae

Origin and Distribution
The plant is native to North Australia and the Malay Archipelago

Description
The plant has a single massive stem like a palm, which can grow to 7m tall. At the top of the trunk is the bunch of stiff, compund leaves. The leaflets are long and narrow, brittle to the touch. Plants are either male or female. The male plant bears a massive male cone terminally on the trunk, made up of numerous fleshy, scale-like leaves covered with pollen sacs on the lower surface. The female plant bears female cones of loosely assembled, narrow, fleshy fertile leaves bearing the ovules. The ovules develop into seeds which are oval, green with a hard cover.

Parts Poisonous: Seed

Chemical compounds: Cyanogenetic glycoside

Information about Poisonous Plants

Are Ferns Poisonous?

2006-05-16T01:33:00.000-07:00

Poisonous plants have always been part of daily life. In the nineteenth century, poisonings due to plants reached near-epidemic levels as people often foraged for sources of food from natural plantings. Today, potentially dangerous plants can still be found all around us. Poisonous plants are frequently part of interiorscapes in homes as well as in landscape plantings outdoors. This has become increasingly problematic as more and more cultivated, exotic plants from throughout the world are introduced into the landscape. Recent studies have estimated that 3.5% of all poisonings in the United States are due to plants.

All types of native and introduced plants can be poisonous including ferns, herbaceous plants, woody shrubs, and trees. Identifying plants that are poisonous is difficult since poisonous plants do not appear distinctly different from their nontoxic relatives or counterparts. Many poisonous plants have such unpleasant tastes that most adults don’t chew them for very long before spitting them out. However, some poisonous plants are not distasteful and can even be sweet and, if eaten in large quantity, can cause serious problems. An example is the fruit of deadly nightshade, Solanum dulcamara; the red berry is not only attractive but also tastes sweet. The situation of plant poisoning of children is quite different than with adults since children have great curiosity and will often chew on anything within their reach, especially attractive berries or fruit. Children are also less likely than adults to spit out unpleasant-tasting substances. Since much smaller quantities are necessary to produce a toxic reaction in children, the risks of poisoning due to ingestion are much greater than for adults. However, regardless of age, reactions to poisonous plants vary with the individual and can be influenced by diet, metabolism, and medications being taken.

The term "poisonous" designates many kinds of reactions or effects. Among the key effects are allergic reactions (caused by spores, pollen, or naturally occurring volatile compounds emitted into the air by plants), skin rashes or dermatitis (caused by direct or indirect contact with allergenic or irritant compounds), skin photosensitization (caused by exposure to irritating or allergenic compounds), and internal poisonings or irritations (from ingestion of plants or plant parts). The general types of poisoning and examples of plants responsible for each are: blood poisoning (wild cherry, Prunus spp.), nerve poisoning (mushrooms), cardiac poisoning (foxglove, Digitalis purpurea), and skin irritation (poison ivy, Toxicodendron radicans).

Dividing Ferns

2006-05-15T01:25:00.000-07:00

Picture of Adiantum capillus-veneris (Black Maidenhair; Southern Maidenhair)

Many time when growing ferns and other types of plants, they become too large for their pot or basket. When this happens, the plant must be placed into a larger pot or basket in order for the plant to continue growth. On many occasions, however, a larger holder may not be available or desired. On these occasions, it is possible to divide the plant into two or more smaller plants.

Dividing ferns is very similar to the act of dividing other perennials. First, the plant must be removed from the soil or pot. This can sometimes be tricky, as the root structure inside the pot may be dense and unwieldy. Next, as much soil as possible must be removed to allow access to the root ball. Using a sharp, long bladed knife to cut the root ball into equal pieces, depending on the number of plants desired. Each part should then be replanted into a separate container.

Dividing ferns is unlike dividing other perennials in that ferns can take quite a bit of abuse when dividing. The root ball is usually extremely tight, so it may take considerable force to cut when dividing ferns. Many other perennials are more delicate and should be handled slightly differently than when dividing ferns.

Beautiful Pictures Of Ferns Fronds

2006-05-14T01:12:00.000-07:00

Great Information About Ferns

Ferns are an ancient type of plant, with fossils of ferns being dated back over three hundred and sixty million years ago. As they are known today, ferns are leafy, non-flowering plants that grow in very moist areas. Like all other types of plants, ferns have several species, which have varying growing conditions. Ferns are extremely successful niche plants, meaning that they are well adapted to specific environmental conditions.

Ferns are vascular plants, meaning that they have developed internal vein structures that aid in the flow of nutrients and water to the outer parts of the plant. Most vascular plants, such as flowers and leafy trees, grow immediately from the seed to their adult form. Ferns, on the other hand, reproduce using spores that grow into an intermediate stage referred to as gametophytes.

The reproductive cycle of ferns is very complicated and needs specific conditions to be completed. First and most importantly, there must be liquid water. This is so that when the gametophyte is grown out of a spore, the sperm from one side of the gametophyte can swim to the eggs on the other side. Once fertilization has occurred, the fern is nurtured inside the gametophyte and grows into the adult plant.

To grow properly, ferns need good moisture, both in the air and in the soil. Ferns also require protection from the wind, as they are very delicate plants. Ferns require sufficient light for photosynthesis, but need protection from too much direct sunlight, as this will dry out the plant. It is important to maintain all of these factors regularly, as ferns are very reliant on consistent condition to both grow and reproduce.

Fern Garden

2006-05-13T00:36:00.000-07:00

Fern gardens are becoming more are more common, as people are realizing the potential that these beautiful plants have. While many other kinds of plants do not vary much from species to species, the leaf structure, size, and shape of ferns can differ greatly, making an all-fern garden nice to look at indeed. Fern gardens are also rather easy to care for, and can grow in several different regions.

The first part to starting a fern garden is to consider the area that it would inhabit. Many species of fern cannot tolerate any frost or temperatures under fifty degrees, so living in a colder zone limits the selection of ferns to choose from. The Christmas fern will retain its green foliage throughout the winter in zones as cold as zone four. This makes the Christmas fern useful for gardens farther north.

One way to avoid limiting fern selection in colder regions is to transplant the ferns each fall into pots or hanging baskets and place them indoors for the winter months. When placed indoors, ferns are easy to care for and require little sunlight. In the garden, nearly all ferns prefer full to partial shade, and all require a fair amount of moisture to thrive. Placing a fern garden beneath a well-shading tree will assure the plants get little sunlight.

Another advantage to placing fern gardens underneath a shady tree is the addition of one of the most interesting ferns, the staghorn fern. The staghorn fern requires no soil to grow, and can be suspended by chain from a tree branch, to make a ball of foliage. These interesting ferns can be attached to hardwood boards and give the impression of a hanging basket, yet there is no basket to be found.

Beautiful Fronds Of Ferns

2006-05-12T01:04:00.000-07:00

A fern is a leafy, flowerless plant that grows in areas of high moisture. Ferns are vascular plants, in that they have a complex internal vein structure that supplies nutrients to the outer regions of the plant. A fern is different from other vascular plants in that most vascular plants grow directly from seeds, while a fern grows from a spore, through an intermediate stage called a gametophyte.

A fern requires certain characteristics in its surroundings to grow. Moisture in the air and soil is a must. A fern is a fairly delicate plant, so wind protection is needed also. A fern will require some direct sunlight, but not too much. Ferns also prefer climates that are more or less constant. A fern will usually not live through a frost.

Ferns have even more specific conditions when it comes to reproducing. For example, a fern may live for a while in a fairly hostile environment, but will most likely not be able to reproduce there. Ferns will only grow naturally where conditions suit the survival of both the plants themselves, and the intermediate gametophytes. It is commonly accepted that the strength of the gametophyte alone will determine survival of the fern.

Ferns have evolved to suit their environment. While some ferns are able to tolerate drought and heat, others will only thrive in the densest of rain forests. For a fern to grow properly in a garden, the garden and its surroundings must be very similar, nearly identical, to the environment it evolved in. For example, a tree fern, found mostly in rain forest climates, will not live in a garden that mimics a desert.

Types Of Ferns

2006-05-11T00:55:00.000-07:00

Pteris ensiformis

There are many types of ferns in the world. Species of fern grow in almost any climate, save sub-Antarctic. There are fern species that will grow in deserts, tolerating extreme heat and drought. Other types of fern will grow only in the deepest areas of the rainforest.

Fluffy Ruffle Fern

Several types of fern can be added to the same garden, for a dramatic look. Most of the fern species prefer shaded areas with moist soil, and these can be combined underneath a shade-giving tree for a spectacular look. Most species of fern are purely green, while other types of fern, such as cinnamon and Japanese painted, offer vivid colors to a shady garden.

Fern identification is often hard to do, as many species of fern look very similar. The easiest type of fern identification is close inspection of the orientation of the fronds and the leaves growing off the sides. Many types of ferns, while looking similar at first glance, will become very different indeed when inspected thoroughly.

Polystichum acrostichoides Christmas Fern

Facts And Pictures Of Boston Fern

2006-05-10T00:20:00.000-07:00

The Boston fern has long green drooping fronds growing out of the crown at the surface of the ground. Boston ferns are generally known to be grown in hanging baskets from porches or indoors.

The Boston fern originates from tropical and semi-tropical regions of the world. Boston ferns are generally tropical, and will not tolerate temperatures under fifty degrees for any extended period of time.

Boston ferns, like all other ferns, prefer good bright light, but not full sun. Misting a Boston fern from time to time is a good idea, as this will mimic the natural rain forest environment. Boston ferns will only grow in the ground in zones nine through eleven. In any colder zone, they will need to be brought inside for the winter season, as temperatures below 45-50 degrees will kill the plant.

Boston ferns will propagate by using runners, which are long stems that produce small plantlets along their length. In their natural conditions, Boston ferns will also spread naturally by using spores. Boston fens can also be divided. This is the process of breaking one large plant into two or more smaller plants.

Boston Fern

2006-05-09T23:37:00.000-07:00

Common Name: Boston Fern
Scientific Name: Nephrolepis exaltata

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Pteridophyta
Class Pteridopsida
Order Polypodidales
Family Davalliaceae
Genus Nephrolepsis
Species N. exaltata

The Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) is a species of fern in the family Davalliaceae (sometimes treated in the families Nephrolepidaceae or Oleandraceae), native to tropical regions throughout the world. It is a common in humid forests and swamps, especially in northern South America, Mexico, Central America, Florida, the West Indies, Polynesia and Africa.

The fronds are 50-250 cm long and 6-15 cm broad, with alternate pinnae (the small "leaflets" on either side of the midrib), each pinna being 2-8 cm long. The pinnae are generally deltoid, as seen in the picture to the right. The pinnate vein pattern is also visible on these highly compound leaves. The edges appear slightly serrate.

The Boston Fern has a great history of being one of the Victorian parlor room tropicals.

It originates from tropical and semi-tropical regions of the world. Often covering rain forest floors, it quickly spreads. It can be used in landscapes as great fill-in and backdrops for smaller annuals.

Ferns, in general, thrive in rich humus soil, partial shade, and high humidity. The Boston fern is no different.

Cultivation and uses

The Boston fern is a very popular house plant, often grown in hanging baskets or similar conditions. It is a perennial plant hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 9-11. Although the fern may appear totally dead due to frost, it wi

ll re-emerge in the spring. In general, the Boston Fern likes damp, but not soggy soil that is rich in nutrients. Of the common cultivated ferns, the Boston Fern is the most tolerant to drought. The fern thrives best in humid conditions, so when grown as a house plant it becomes necessary to mist the plant when relative humidity falls below around 80%. Although outdoors this plant prefers partial shade or full shade, inside it grows best in bright filtered light. This plant is usually propagated by division of the rooted runners, as named cultivars will not come true from spores.

Some cultivars have become naturalised in Florida.

Special Tips

Propagation can be done from spores, runners or by division.

Clay pots are an excellent way to grow the plant.

Misting is ideal for it creates the tropical and semi-tropical conditions that the plant loves best.

Pay close attention for aphids, mealy bugs, or the red spider. Do not use pesticides for they are a tad strong on ferns. Use soap and water, drenching and repeating the process several times.

Facts And Pictures Of Polypody

2006-05-08T22:32:00.000-07:00

Great Information about Polypodium vulgare

Description
Rhizome: creeping, branching, whitish waxy, rather thick, with phylopodia, scales lanceolate, base and margins light brown, sometimes with dark central stripe.

Frond: 25 cm high by 7 cm wide, evergreen, new fronds early summer, monomorphic, blade/stipe ratio: 1:1 to 3:1.

Stipe: jointed at base, straw-colored, narrowly triangular, red-brown scales, to 4 mm, these scales are peltate, vascular bundles: 3 at the base, unifying upwards into an open v-shape.

Blade: pinnatifid, lanceolate to linear, parallel sides in the lower half, truncated base, leathery or herbaceous, mid green, dull in shade, rachis sparsely scaly below, glabrous above; scales lanceolate-ovate.

Pinnae: 10 to 20 pair, alternate; margins entire or crenate, rarely serrate; veins free, forking.

Sori: round, discrete, sunken into the lamina, bulging on the top surface, midway between margin and midrib, on the upper half of the blade, indusium: absent, sporangia: early green, later yellow, then rusty brown, maturity: late summer to early fall.

Dimensionality: normally the lowest pinnae pair only slightly bending forward, down; pinnae rolling up into the rachis, above the plane, when desicated or in winter.

Culture
Habitat: acidic, well-drained locations, on rocks, logs, hillsides.

Distribution: central and northern Europe, less common southern Europe, occurence elsewhere often segrated into other taxa. Hardy to -25°C, USDA Zone 5.

Polypody - delicate perennial fern growing to a height of 1 ft (30 cm). Polypody has slender knotty rhizomes and curving fronds that are dotted with brown spores (sori) on their lower surface.

Polypody rhizome contains saponins (based on polypodosapogenin), ecdysteroids, phloroglucins, volatile oil, fixed oil, and tannins.

Native to Europe and northern Asia, polypody is commonly found growing in damp woodland and thickets, and on walls. The rhizome is unearthed in autumn.

Polypody stimulates bile secretion and is a gentle laxative. Traditionally, polypody has been used in European herbal medicine as a treatment for hepatitis and jaundice, and as a remedy for indigestion and loss of appetite. Polypody makes a safe treatment for constipation in children. The rhizome is also expectorant, having a supportive and mildly stimulating effect on the respiratory system. It may be taken for the relief of congestion, bronchitis, pleuisy, and dry irritable coughs. The rhizome combines well with marsh mallow.

Polypodium vulgare (Polypody)

2006-05-07T21:09:00.000-07:00

Common name: Polypody
Scientific Name: Polypodium vulgare

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Pteridophyta
Class Pteridopsida
Order Polypodiales
Family: Polypodiaceae
Genus: Polypodium

Polypody can often be seen growing along the branches of oak trees or even on old roofs. Its dark green fronds are deeply lobed and give the appearance of a double-sided comb. It makes good ground cover and other than being a bit susceptible to drought, which will usually only fry off the foliage and not kill the plant, it is very tough and adaptable.

Polypodium is a large genus of true ferns, widely distributed throughout the world, but specially developed in the tropics. The name is derived from Gr. poly, many, and podium, a little foot, on account of the foot-like appearance of the rhizome and its branches.

The species differ greatly in size and general appearance and in the character of the frond; the son or groups of spore-cases (sporangia) are borne on the back of the leaf, are globose and naked, that is, are not covered with a membrane (indusium). The common polypody (Plypodium vulgare) is widely diffused in the British Isles, where it is found on walls, banks, trees, and other places; the creeping, densely-scaly rootstock bears deeply pinnately cut fronds, the fertile ones bearing on the back the bright yellow naked groups of sporangia (son). It is also known as adders foot, golden maidenhair and wood-fern, and is the oak- fern of the old herbals.

There are a large number of varieties, differing chiefly in the form and division of the pinnae; var. cambricum (originally found in Wales) has the pinnae themselves deeply cut into narrow segments; var. cornubiense is a very elegant plant with finely-divided fronds; var. cnislatum is a handsome variety with fronds forking at the apex and the tips of all the pinnae crested and curled.

Medicinal Uses
Polypody stimulates bile secretion and is a gentle laxative. In European herbal medicine it is traditionally used as a treatment for hepatitis and jaundice and as a remedy for indigestion and loss of appetite. It should not be used externally since it can cause skin rashes. The root is alterative anthelmintic cholagogue demulcent diuretic expectorant pectoral purgative tonic. It can be used either fresh or dried and is best harvested in October or November though it can be collected until February. The leaves can also be used but are less active. A tea made from the roots is used in the treatment of pleurisy hives sore throats and stomach aches and as a mild laxative for children. It was also considered of value for lung ailments and liver diseases. The poulticed root is applied to inflammations. A tea or syrup of the whole plant is anthelmintic.

Pellaea rotundifolia (Button Fern)

2006-05-06T20:39:00.000-07:00

The button fern has dark green rounded leaves attached to firm, wiry stems and forms a dense, attractive plant.

When potting use a peaty mixture and shallow pans. Almost all ferns in small pots will quickly beocme root bound and will lose their vigour if not potted on. However, inspection of roots can be misleading as these are very dark brown and the color of the peaty soil in which they are growing, so careful inspection is needed before potting on.

Potting is best done in spring or summer and the new container should be only a little larger than the last. Roots ought to be moistened before it is removed from the pot, and after potting the soil should be well enough watered for surplus to be seen draining through the holes in the base of the pot. Then keep the newly potted plant on the dry side for several weeks - careful judgement is needed, as excessive drying out of the peat mixture can be fatal as far as ferns are concerned.

Special Tips:
Shade
Temperature 16 - 21 degree celsius
keep moist
Avoid direct sunlight.

Useful Information About Staghorn Fern

2006-05-05T19:48:00.000-07:00

These are tender, tropical Ferns that must be grown in a
greenhouse. They are found wild in tropical Africa, Asia, Malaya,
Madagascar, Java, and Australia. They look quite different from the
average Fern. They have two kinds of fronds, barren and fertile. The
fertile (spore-bearing) fronds are from 18 inches to 3 feet long, flat,
narrow at the base and then spread out widely at the tips, where they
are divided deeply giving a look resembling antlers of a stag or elk,
thus the name Staghorn Fern. These fronds are pendulous and produce
spores in large, uneven patches. The base from which these fronds hang
are the barren fronds. They are thin, almost round leaves that are
green when young, but as they age, turn brown and papery. These fronds
lie flat against the surface from which they grow (which would be
trunks and branches of trees as these Ferns are epiphytal), collecting
food material and supporting the plant. Dead leaves and organic
material collect behind them and provide the Fern with nourishment.
Their thin, threadlike roots also cling to the branches of the trees
and absorb their moisture from the water that trickles down the trunks.
Small green buds that grow at irregular spots on the roots, eventually
expand and develop new plants.

Potting
Most of these Ferns require a minimum winter temperature of 55
degrees, but one kind, P. bifurcatum (alcicorne), which is a native to
Australia, can be grown in a greenhouse with a minimum winter
temperature of 45 degrees. They need a light, porous soil that can hold
moisture in well. The best compost consists of equal parts of orchid
peat (osmunda fiber) and finely chopped sphagnum moss. A small amount
of crushed charcoal, which prevents the compost from becoming sour, and
some half-decayed oak leaves should be added. There are several
different ways to cultivate these Ferns. In a greenhouse large slabs of
cork bark can be attached to the wall to form pockets, the compost is
then inserted behind the cork and the plants, placed on the surface of
the compost, are held in place by wooden pegs. They can also be grown
on pieces of tree trunk, which are held up in a vertical position,
either by inserting them in the soil in the floor of the greenhouse or
in large flowerpots. The plants are held in position by a little
compost being placed behind the barren or clasping fronds. First they
are fixed to the trunk with an encircling band of thin wire, but later
on they'll attach and support themselves. When growing these plants in
pots, a slab of cork bark, or a piece or tree branch, preferably Cedar,
Redwood, Cypress, or some other long-lasting kind, which has a length
that is twice the depth of the pot, is placed upright in the pot. The
pot should almost be filled up with crocks to provide excellent
drainage and hold the bark or branch in place. The plant is then
attached to the bark or branch in the way described. The barren fronds
will eventually conceal the support completely from view. The soil must
be kept moist throughout the entire year. During the summer, water is
applied in profusion, but in the winter months, just as the soil is
approaching dryness. After they have been attached to their support,
these Ferns shouldn’t be disturbed. A top-dressing of fresh compost
should be given every spring to keep them growing actively. They need
shade from strong sunlight and a humid atmosphere, which can be
maintained by wetting the benches and floor of the greenhouse whenever


Species of staghorn fern, Platycerium, typically produce
one or more broad, clasping leaves, called niche or shield leaves, next
to the trunk at the base of the plant, in addition to lobed, projecting
leaves. The niche leaf produces a sheltered, wet microhabitat for the
adventitious roots, within which organic matter, hence vital nutrients
can accumulate. Commonly, the niche leaf turns light brown with age.

Propagation
All kinds, except P. grande, produce small rooted Ferns from
their bases. These may be detached and planted in a pan of sifted soil
compost. They are held in place by pegging them down with pieces of
wire bent to hairpin shape or with wooden pegs. The soil is kept moist
and when they're large enough, they're fixed to their permanent spots
as previously described. These Ferns may also be raised from spores,
but this method is rarely used (except for P. grande, the kind that
doesn't produce small plants), because it is a much slower process. The
spores must be fully ripe. To test them for ripeness, a frond is
gathered when the spores are brown and placed in a paper bag. This is
hung in a position with good ventilation for a few days. The spores
that are found at the bottom of the bag are ripe enough to plant. A
deep pan or pot is almost filled up with crocks over which a layer of
rough peat or moss is placed. The rest of the space is filled with peat
moss and finely chopped sphagnum moss. The spores are sprinkled on top
of the soil and are kept moist by setting the pot in a saucer of water.
Growth is very slow, but when they're large enough to handle, they are
lifted carefully and placed 2 inches apart in deep pans filled with
similar compost, where they are kept moist until they're large enough
to fix to their permanent positions.
needed.

Varieties
For the cool greenhouse - P. bifurcatum (alcicorne). 
For the hothouse - P. grande; P. Willinckii; P. Stemaria (aethiopicum).

Staghorn Fern

2006-05-04T19:48:00.000-07:00

Common Name : Staghorn Fern
Scientific Name: Platycerium bifurcatum

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Pteridophyta
Class Pteridopsida
Order Polypodiales
Family Polypodiaceae
Genus Platycerium

Platycerium is a genus of fern in the Polypod family, Polypodiaceae. Ferns in this genus are widely known as Staghorn or Elkhorn ferns due to their uniquely-shaped fronds. This genus is epiphytic and is native to tropical areas of South America, Africa, Southeast Asia, Austria and New Guinea.

The plant grows with one kind of frond against the tree and another type jutting out like a flattened male deer's antler, away from the tree, hence the name Staghorn fern. The later fronds are the fertile spore-carrying kind. If the conditions are right the spores will germinate naturally on surrounding trees.

These oddly-shaped ferns can be found in gardens, especially tropical gardens. Staghorns can be propagated by carefully dividing large healthy ones into smaller, separate plants. These new plants can then be strapped to trees with an old stocking until they take to the tree themselves.

A mature staghorn can grow more than a meter wide. When positioned well, Platycerium species are able to add privacy and a natural look to a garden.

Caring For Bird's Nest Ferns

2006-05-03T19:13:00.000-07:00

Asplenium nidus avis

As small plants these are not very exciting, but once they have been advanced to pot sizes of around 18cm they have few equals. But the growing of these plants to perfection is one of the more difficult exercises in horticulture.

Surrounding objects touching tender leaves will almost certainly cause irreparable damage, as will spraying foliage with unsuitable chemicals or the presence of slugs.

Leaves can be kept in good order if a temperature of around 21 degree celsius is maintained and plants enjoy good light but not direct sun.

Open, peaty mixture is needed when potting, and water applied to the top of the soil should immediately flow through.

Frequently feeding of established plants with weak fertilizer is preferred to infrequent heavier doses. Keep soil moist.

Scale insects can be seen as dark brown or flesh-coloured spots adhering to the area around the midrib of the leaf. These can be sponged off with malathion.

Fast acts About Bird's Nest Fern

2006-05-02T18:57:00.000-07:00

Like most tree ferns, the Bird's Nest is popular and pilfered.
It is also known as the Crow’s Nest Fern.
It grows in a great variety of sites in rainforests as an epiphyte on large trees or independently growing on the forest floor and rocks if good light is available.
It is found in Queensland, New South Wales to the south coast, and Asia. In southern Queensland and New South Wales the fern is generally larger than in northern Queensland, and there are suggestions that this smaller fern may be a different species.
It is well adapted to the sometimes harsh conditions of the rainforest and recovers quickly with the assistance of rain even though the leaves may look wilted, brown and beyond repair.
Reproduction is achieved through sporing. The sori are located at the midrib of the frond.
Fronds can reach two metres long and twenty centimetres wide, but, in North Queensland, fronds grow less than one metre long, thus suggesting the presence of an independent species.
The nest shaped radiating fronds catch dead leaves and other rainforest litter which is caught as the leaves bend outward with age.
The litter rots and forms a growing medium for the root system of the fern and other epiphytes.
The root system is small, considering the size of the fern, but it is dense and spongy and is covered with persistent brown root hairs.
It may be confused with Asplenium nidus.
Its genus contains about 650 species, 26 of them in Australia.
It is excellent for growing in a pot, tub or basket (due to its small root system), but is also suitable for culture in the ground. It dislikes being in full shade and wet soil and prefers filtered sunlight and a dry situation such as under eaves or large gums for example.
Particularly due to its tussock of radiating fronds, it is very popular in cultivation throughout the world.

Bird's Nest Fern

2006-05-01T18:44:00.000-07:00

Common Name: Bird's Nest Fern
Scientific Name : Asplenium australasicum

Scientific Classification
Kingdom Plantae
Division Pteridophyta
Class Pteridopsida
Order Aspleniales
Family Aspleniaceae
Genus Asplenium L.

Asplenium is a genus of about 700 species of ferns, commonly treated as the only genus in the family Aspleniaceae, though some species are occasionally segregated into their own genera. Common names include spleenwort (many species), bird's-nest fern (A. nidus and several allied species), with other distinct names applied to a few individual species.

Both the scientific name and the common name spleenwort are derived from an old belief, based on the doctrine of signatures, that the fern was useful for ailments of the spleen, due to the spleen-shaped sori on the backs of the fronds (wort is an ancient name that simply means plant).

A few of these ferns have some economic importance in the horticulture trade. The Bird's-nest Fern (Asplenium nidus and several very similar, closely related species) are commonly found for sale as a house plant. The Australian Asplenium bulbiferum is sometimes available at greenhouses, and is of interest, along with the related Asplenium vivparum, for the many small bulblets borne on the fronds that may grow into new plants. This characteristic is also shared with the eastern North American Walking Fern Asplenium rhizophyllum, and several Mexican species, including Asplenium palmeri. The Ebony Spleenwort Asplenium platyneuron of North America is also sometimes sold in nurseries as a hardy plant. However, many spleenworts are epipetric or epiphytic and difficult to cultivate.

Some classifications include Asplenium in the order Aspleniales.

Types Of Species of Asplenium

Life Cycle Of A Fern

2006-04-30T18:36:00.000-07:00

Ferns, unlike some other plants, do not flower in order to propagate. Instead, they reproduce sexually from spores. The life cycle of a fern is very different from the life cycle of many other plants. While many plants grow a mature adult form straight out of the seed, ferns have an intermediate stage, called a gametophyte, which then grows into a mature fern.

There are two distinct stages in the life cycle of ferns. The first stage is that of the gametophyte. Spores are produced on the underside of mature plants. These will germinate and grow into small, heart-shaped plants called gametophytes (picture on the left). The gametophytes produce both sperm and egg cells, and will fertilize itself, or others. Once the fertilization occurs, the adult fern will begin growing.

The second stage in the life cycle of a fern is the adult stage. The fertilized gametophytes begin to look like a mossy growth. After some time, young fronds will appear, rising out of the moss. If direct sunlight falls onto the young fronds for an extended period of time, the plant may die easily. This is because the tiny stems are not strong enough to sustain direct light and will dry out.

Once these tiny fronds grow larger, the plant has a better chance of survival. When the veins are matured, moisture from the ground will be transported easily to the outermost leaves and the plant can withstand periods of direct sunlight. After the plant is large and mature, it will grow spores on the undersides of its leaves and the life cycle of a fern will begin again.

Ferns For The Garden

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Outdoors, most plants enjoy consistent moisture and shade to part shade. Some varieties, such as Ostrich and Royal can grow in full sun if given very wet conditions. Look for plants that are native to your region. The leaves look great in naturalistic woodland gardens, perennial shade borders, along streams and pond edges, in containers and as groundcover. In warm climates, staghorn varieties can lend a tropical air to a garden when grown attached to a tree trunk. Tree varieties can also be quite impressive as the focal point of a garden bed.

The following are beautiful and adaptable.

Athyrium niponicum ‘Pictum’, Japanese painted, zones 3-8
Adiantum pedatum, Maidenhair, zones 4-9
Osmunda regalis, Royal, zones 3-10
Osmunda cinnamomea, Cinnamon, zones 3-10
Dryopteris spinulosa, Common wood, zones 3-10
Dennstaedtia punctilobula, Hayscented, zones 3-9
Polystichum acrostichoides, Christmas, zones 3-8
Polystichum munitum, Sword, zones 8-11
Matteuchia pennsylvanica, Ostrich, zones 2-9

Propagating Your Ferns

The plants are most easily multiplied by division. For houseplants, divide when clumps get crowded or when lots of new offshoots are growing. Plant each section in a small pot. In the garden, divide established plants in spring before new growth appears. Dig up the whole clump and saw or pry the sections apart. Replant at the same soil level as before and water well. Ambitious gardeners may want to try growing them from spores.

Ferns As Your Houseplants

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The fern is often associated with lush, cool glades and moist valleys. Both indoors and out, the green foliage provides a sense of calm. While many varieties love damp, shady conditions, the fern can be found growing in a huge range of conditions on almost every continent. There are species native to desert, alpine, forest, meadow and wetland ecosystems. Not all are ‘ferny’ either, some like the shield fern, don’t have tiny pinnae on their fronds, but have large, strap-like leaves. And Holly ferns have leaves like, well, holly. They are an ancient group of plants does not produce flowers, but instead reproduces by means of spores.

While outdoor plants usually love shade and evenly moist conditions, indoor versions prefer moderate to bright, indirect light and like to have their soil dry out slightly between waterings. Like a lot of house plants, a fern does best when slightly root bound. High humidity is really beneficial, but as most homes don’t have much moisture in the air year round, spraying the leaves with water from a mister a few times a week is a good practice. Pebble trays filled with water beneath the plant can also help raise the humidity around the plant.

Picture of Maidenhair Fern

Here are some attractive and easy-to-grow indoor varieties:

Picture of Asplenium nidus

Caring For Maidenhair Fern

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Maidenhair Fern grows all over the world in tropical to warm temperate climates. The stems were used in basketry by various peoples.

Numerous varieties are available of these most delicate and beautiful foliage palnts, whose pale green foliage contrasts with their black stems. Bright, direct sunlight and dry atmospheric conditions will prove fatal. Offer maidenhair ferns lightly shaded positions in a warm room: place plants in a larger container and surround their pots with a moisture-retaining material such as peat. Misting of foliage is often recommended, but this exercise can have undesirable effects if the surrounding air temperature is inadequate. It is therefore better to use the mister to wet the soil surface. Avoid use of chemicals on foliage. When potting on, a peaty mixture is needed, and once plants have established in their pots weak liquid feeding will be needed every time the plant is watered. During winter, feeding is not important and watering should be only sufficient to keep the soil moist.

CULTIVATION: Prefers alkaline soil. Woodland leaf duff mixed with limestone or ground oyster shell works well. As with most ferns it should have good drainage and be kept moist at all times. This fern is very popular for its propensity to produce volumes of delicate graceful fronds. It will grow quickly to fill its container, and can be divided as many times as you wish. Cut off the existing fronds when (re)potting sections of rhizome. Most books recommend a shady placement, but mine get a good deal of morning sun and seem to love it.

Facts About Maidenhair Fern

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Adiantum pedatum five-fingered maidenhair fern is native to the whole Atlantic seaboard of North America, to the center of the continent, but not the western half of the continent, where its environmental niche is filled by A. aleuticum, the Western Maidenhair. Formerly these two ferns were thought to be variants of the same speces, so outdated references are apt to state that A. pedatum is found throughout the continent.

It is not at all sun tolerant, requirng shade to deep shade. Nor can it tolerate droughtiness. Given its minimal requirements of shade & moisture & organically rich soil, it is fantastically hardy. It likes to be surrounded by leaflitter, so does best under deciduous trees. It dies back entirely in winter so is not worried that its location gets sunny after leaf-fall.

It is among the most beautiful of all ferns, "graceful" & "delicate" being the most recurring descriptors. The shiny black stems are lined on two sides with lacy leaves, in upright to fountaining sprays.

Maidenhair fern is the source of a pleasantly aromatic volatile oil long used as a rinse or shampoo that rendered black hair very shiny, hence the name Maidenhair.

The same extracts have been peddled by herbalists to cure asthma, the flu, or as a general tonic which, for so long as you take it, will prevent you from catching whichever are the illnesses you happen not to get, but apparently useless for whichever ailments you do get.

Its tripernoids & other chemical components are interesting in their own right & have undergone hundreds of laboratory studies, but authentic medicinal value has proven to be illusive.

The tough, water-repellant, shiny black stems were used by Native American peoples in basketweaving. The genus name means "repels water," for indeed raindrops weigh down the fronds & drop onto the ground leaving the fronds nearly dry.

Medicinal Uses Of Maidenhair Fern

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A plant of great delicacy, maidenhair fern has a thin, polished, black main leafstalk and fanlike leaflets supported by stalks as fine as hair. The plant has a gossamer look that makes it in demand for dried flower arrangements. Maidenhair fern prefers a wet environment, usually growing in limestone soils dampened by waterfall spray. Water runs off its foliage with the result that, even after being immersed in water, it emerges with dry leaves-hence its scientific name, Adiantum, meaning "unwetted." The fern's association with hair gave rise to an old belief that drinking a tea made from the plant could keep hair from falling out.

Maidenhair fern contains flavonoids (including rutin and isoquercitin), terpenoids (including adiantone), a tannin and mucilage.

A tea from the fresh plant has been used as an expectorant in treating coughs since the time of the ancient Greeks. Later herbalists prescribed maidenhair fern for more serious respiratory conditions, such as pleurisy, but with less success, for it is not a potent plant. Maidenhair fern was also employed to promote menstruation and as a mild diuretic.

A relative is the northern maidenhair (A. pedatum), which has a somewhat forked stalk, as opposed to the single stalk of A. capillusveneris, also called southern maidenhair fern.

Aerial parts are used by Western herbalists to treat coughs, bronchitis, excess mucus, sore throat and chronic nasal congestion, maidenhair fern also has a longstanding reputation as a remedy for conditions of the hair and scalp.